Guangdong · Shantou—The Most Unassuming Special Economic Zone

When talking about China's Special Economic Zones, everyone first thinks of Shenzhen, then maybe Zhuhai and Xiamen, and some might even remember Hainan Province. However, many people forget about Shantou in eastern Guangdong. This city, which sounds full of stories, is also one of the first four Special Economic Zones in China. Yet, it's the most unassuming one, almost forgotten. On my journey across China, I came to this city, to the Chaoshan region where it's located, with intense curiosity. When I think of the Chaoshan region, I imagine a secluded paradise in Lingnan, a place that seems extremely remote even within Guangdong. It's a world belonging to the Hakka people, a "place outside the law" that has historically defied imperial authority and valued only clan. It's a hotbed of maritime civilization created by the Chinese within the continental civilization. Of course, it's also one of the birthplaces of Cantonese cuisine, famous for its rich and unique delicacies. You might not think of traveling here, but you'll definitely think of coming here to savor the food. This time, I'm going to explore this land properly. My first stop was naturally Shantou. This city, once unremarkable even within the Chaoshan region, rose rapidly with the opening of ports in the late Qing Dynasty, becoming a major port city. Serving as a window connecting Hakka people worldwide, it became one of the first Special Economic Zones in 1978. However, its deep-rooted clan culture and strong local protectionism quickly led it astray after opening up. With the eruption of the Republic's first tax evasion scandal, Shantou forever lost its chance to become Shenzhen, a truly regrettable outcome. Arriving in Shantou, my first impression was its age. The old town seemed dilapidated, and the new town wasn't particularly striking. But after settling in, I discovered that hidden within this dilapidated old town were many atmospheric hole-in-the-wall restaurants that made me linger. And while the city might not appear glamorous, many details in its infrastructure reflect a humanistic care, making people feel comfortable. Perhaps this is Shantou's appeal. There aren't any must-see tourist attractions that draw people from thousands of miles away, nor are there any historical relics steeped in profound history. But it's a perfect place for a relaxing trip without a specific purpose, just wanting to unwind, stroll around, and enjoy delicious food in a different environment.