Kumamoto's Suizenji Jojuen: A Cultural Stroll Through History and Literature

Suizenji Jojuen is not only a representative historical garden of Kumamoto but also a treasure trove of cultural and artistic spirit. Within the garden stands the Noh Theater, a testament to the Hosokawa family's passion for the traditional Japanese art of Noh. The first-generation Hosokawa Yusai was renowned as a master of Noh drumming, the second-generation Tadaoki even performed on stage, and the third-generation Tadatoshi was deeply dedicated to studying Noh, making Kumamoto a flourishing center for Noh culture during the Edo period. The Noh Theater was originally built in 1878 when Izumi Shrine was established, but it was destroyed by fire in 1965. The current structure was relocated from the residence of the Matsui family, former retainers of the Kumamoto domain and lords of the old Yatsushiro Castle. Every year, on the first Saturday of August, the "Takigi Noh" performance is held, where the stage is illuminated by firelight, creating an ethereal atmosphere. Over the years, the venue has expanded to host diverse artistic performances, including jazz and dance. Another significant landmark within the garden is the "Mount Fuji Mound," originally the highest point for viewing the entire garden. During the Satsuma Rebellion, its peak was leveled to serve as a government artillery base. The mound originally stood 20 meters tall from the water's surface. Although the summit collapsed due to unstable foundations during the Kumamoto Earthquake, it has since been restored to its original state. The garden also features three haiku monuments dedicated to Natsume Soseki, commemorating his time as an English teacher at Kumamoto Fifth High School from 1896 to 1900. During this period, he composed over 900 haiku and corresponded with Masaoka Shiki. These monuments were crafted from the stone of the Izumi Shrine's torii gate, which collapsed during the Kumamoto Earthquake, symbolizing the continuation of disaster memory and cultural heritage. One of the haiku, "Shimenawa ya / Haru no mizu waku / Suizenji" (Sacred rope / Spring water gushes / Suizenji), reflects Soseki's admiration for the beauty of Suizenji's spring waters.