Self-driving in Sichuan (Forty-three): Visiting Xisuo Residences

On the evening of July 8, 2024, at a quarter past 8, we crossed the prayer wheel bridge over Nazugou and entered Xisuo Residences, also known as Zhuokeji Ancient Street. Xisuo Residences are uniquely characterized by the Jiarong Tibetan style, maintaining the traditional architectural style of the Jiarong ancestors who built their houses with stones. The village is densely packed and well-arranged, looking like a fortified ancient castle from a distance. Walking on the bluestone paths, the sound of footsteps echoes between the towering stone walls, extending through the narrow paths, giving a sense of secluded tranquility. These distinct, angular stone buildings blend seamlessly with the surrounding rugged mountains and steep cliffs. The bright totem houses, red tiles, and fluttering prayer flags add a touch of mystery to the place. The Tibetan village consists entirely of three-story stone buildings. The ground floor is for livestock, the second floor serves as the kitchen and living quarters, and the third floor is the prayer hall and guest rooms. The residential buildings are shaped like watchtowers, also known as diaolou. The walls around the houses are built with stone slabs bonded with yellow mud. The walls are up to 1 meter thick, constructed with an inward tapering method. The craftsmen, relying solely on experience, build stone walls as neatly as if they were cutting tofu, with sharp edges, narrow at the top and wide at the bottom. The entire wall is in a compressive state, becoming the main load-bearing structure of the building. Additionally, the internal wooden beams support and pull each other, making the entire building smaller at the top and larger at the bottom, with the center of gravity inward, providing strong stability. At the highest point, the corners of the watchtower form sharp edges, creating a sense of momentum. The edges of the stone walls at the highest point are thickened to avoid flat surfaces, enhancing the three-dimensional effect. The roof is divided into two parts: the front half is flat with low walls on three sides, and the rear half forms a sloped shape covered with stone slabs or tiles. The windows on each floor are small on the outside and large on the inside, with elaborate window frames featuring carving, painting, and coloring techniques, rich in ethnic characteristics. These watchtowers are not only warm in winter and cool in summer but also have unique architectural artistry and high aesthetic value, like precious works of art.