Hezhou: Poetry in Landscapes, Joy in Daily Life
In eastern Guangxi lies a city favored by time—Hezhou. A millennia-old post along the ancient Xiahe Road, it is a watercolor painting amidst karst peaks and the haven where countless souls find "a stolen moment of leisure in life's hustle." When dawn spills over the bamboo sea of Mount Gupo and dusk kisses the bluestone paths of Huangyao Ancient Town, the city's stories flow quietly between its landscapes and daily rhythms.
I. Mountains and Waters: Nature’s Poetic Canvas
Hezhou’s mountains are nature’s "freehand ink paintings."
Before the mist disperses over Mount Gupo, the waterfalls of Shibashui already play their symphony in the valleys. With its main peak at 1,730 meters, Mount Gupo is South China’s "natural oxygen bar." Hiking trails wind through ancient forests, where streams murmur and towering trees stand sentinel. Spring brings azaleas in bloom, summer offers shade and cicada songs, autumn paints the slopes in red, and winter whispers of snow atop the peaks—each season unfolds like a living scroll.
The karst-sculpted Yushilin (Jade Forest) presents another wonder. Marble pillars, polished by eons of time, glow softly in the sunlight, some sharp as unsheathed swords, others gentle as grazing sheep. Wandering here feels like stepping into a frozen "stone fairy tale."
Hezhou’s waters are silken ribbons draped over the mountains.
The He River mirrors stilt houses and rice fields along its banks. Drifting downstream, you’ll see egrets skimming the water and fishing boats parting the waves, while distant peaks sway in the ripples—blurring the line between moving water and shifting hills. Hidden springs, like the sulfurous pools of Hezhou Hot Springs, steam amidst the trees. Soaking in warmth while listening to bamboo groves rustle is the perfect balm for weariness.
II. Past and Present: A Gentle Dialogue Across Time
Hezhou’s history lingers in the curves of its tiled eaves.
Huangyao Ancient Town, ranked among "China’s Top Ten Most Beautiful Ancient Towns," preserves its Ming-Qing street grid. Time-polished flagstones, ornate opera stage carvings, and the Dragon Bridge spanning the Yao River at dawn—veiled in mist—feel plucked from a myth. Venture deeper, and you might meet elders drying tangerine peels in courtyards or catch the aroma of stuffed tofu from century-old eateries—a tapestry of life unchanged.
Along the crumbling Xiahe Road, moss writes history on ancient stones. Once a vital artery linking Hunan, Guangxi, and Guangdong, this route bore horse hoof prints now faded, leaving behind posthouses, ancestral halls, and stone tablets. On Fuchuan’s covered bridges, peeling murals and wind humming through arches seem to echo with caravan bells from a thousand years ago.
Hezhou’s present blooms from its past.
As lanterns light up ancient streets, young artisans sell Yao embroidery and Zhaoping tea, their stalls showcasing intangible heritage. Night markets hum with the tang of snail noodles and the sweetness of glutinous rice cakes, where trendy cafés face off against traditional teahouses—a harmonious clash of old and new. Amid modern towers, life stays unhurried: tai chi at Lingfeng Square, chess by the river, and evening strolls under tangerine sunsets. This "newness" pays homage to tradition while embracing the now.
III. Flavors and Memories: A Culinary Love Letter
Hezhou’s taste is a bounty born of its land.
Zhaoping green tea, nurtured in misty highlands, yields a crisp fragrance. During spring harvests, tea pickers move through rows, their fingers plucking buds later pan-fired, rolled, and dried into emerald brews. Sipping Zhaoping Yinshan tea, watching leaves unfurl, is like drinking spring itself.
Yàng dishes (stuffed delicacies) are Hezhou’s culinary soul. Tofu, squash blossoms, chili peppers—all become vessels for minced pork mixed with scallions and mushrooms, steamed or boiled into umami harmony. Festive feasts center on these creations, each bite a wish for family unity and life’s wholeness.
Then there’s Huangyao fermented black beans, a 300-year-old craft transforming soybeans into a "flavor soul." A sprinkle elevates stir-fries, soups, or steamed fish, its richness a taste of home tucked into luggage by wandering locals.
IV. Heart and Journey: A Sanctuary for the Soul
Hezhou’s beauty lies not just in sights but in its power to quiet the mind.
If city clamor wearies you, retreat to its villages. In Fuchuan’s colorful Hutou Village, murals bloom on brick walls as elders recount Yao legends. At Longjing Village, watch rice fields shift hues with seasons, join farmers herding cattle at dusk, and see chimney smoke curl over earthen roofs. Time slows here—enough to hear your heartbeat, spot wildflowers by a wall, or share smiles with strangers.
Hezhou asks to be walked through and felt. It lacks metropolitan glitter but cradles you in nature’s arms; it spurns Instagram crowds for the serenity of age. After bamboo forests in Mount Gupo, stone-paved lanes in Huangyao, tea from Zhaoping, and hometown flavors, you’ll learn: the finest views aren’t rushed but where the heart finds rest and time stands still.
If you seek a rendezvous of landscapes and life’s simple joys, come to Hezhou—its mountains, waters, and stories are waiting.