Gansu-Qinghai Grand Loop Counterclockwise Road Trip: 3,500 km (Part 2)
Day 7: Mangya - Xitai - Water Yadan
Since we were forced to cut short our visit to the Mangya Emerald Lake the day before, we felt a bit unsatisfied. Since it was on the way to Xitai, we decided to go back as a group. This time, it was sunny and windless—the lake was even greener and more vibrant, offering a different charm, though the sun was scorching. We still regretted the storm the previous evening, but we loved this lake for its sparse crowds and stunning views. Due to Mangya’s remote location, tour groups rarely come here; most visitors are self-drivers or private hires, and not everyone is willing to stay overnight just for this lake.
On the way to Xitai, we caught a glimpse of Tiffany blue on the map—it turned out to be Xitai Jinair Lake. Following tire tracks, we drove down and found the same mesmerizing color as Dongtai Jinair Lake online, which was a delightful surprise. However, only a strip of blue was visible by the shore. A drone could have captured a vast expanse, but unfortunately, my little Flip ran out of battery.
We arrived at the U-shaped Water Yadan around 5 PM, only to encounter a sandstorm that forced a temporary closure. Many tourists had to refund their tickets. Luckily, we were staying inside the scenic area. After checking in, we walked a bit further and captured breathtaking sunset views of the Water Yadan.
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Day 8: Water Yadan - Qarhan Salt Lake - Golmud
Staying in the scenic area meant we could explore Water Yadan again the next morning, unlike unlucky day-trippers who had to leave due to the sandstorm. We stayed at the Water Yadan Luxury Wild Hotel in tents and bought a combo ticket for activities inside the park—¥1,560 for two, including a buffet, yacht rides, sand karting, motorcycles, off-road tours to the "Angel’s Eye," camel rides, and an aerial photography session. A great deal! My son dragged me out at 5 AM for sunrise, freezing even in all my layers—the sunrise was underwhelming, but the sunset was spectacular. Highly recommend visiting in the evening.
The drive from Water Yadan to Qarhan Salt Lake took about three hours. The lake was a vast emerald green, with a huge parking lot and many tour buses. While stunning, it was crowded—the famous white salt flower terrace was trampled black. Compared to this, I preferred Mangya Emerald Lake.
After Qarhan, we drove another 60-70 km to Golmud and stayed at the budget-friendly Ibis Hotel for just over ¥300—the best accommodation of the trip.
Originally, we planned two nights in Golmud, with a day trip to Hoh Xil’s Yaochi (Jade Pool). But due to road construction, the round trip would take 12 hours—too much. We adjusted our plans and headed to Delingha instead.
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Day 9: Golmud - Dachaidan Emerald Lake - Xiao Qaidam Lake - Delingha
By Day 9, fatigue set in—not just for the driver but also passengers.
Dachaidan Emerald Lake was crowded. Those raving about it online probably hadn’t been to Mangya. This year, the water levels were low, leaving scattered blue-green puddles. Off-road vehicles (¥600 per ride) could take you deeper, but we passed.
On the way to Delingha, we stopped at Xiao Qaidam Lake—a massive, wild, and stunning spot. Baidu Maps directed us to a viewpoint on the Delingha-Xiao Qaidam Highway, even suggesting a U-turn on the highway (a quirk of Qinghai-Gansu roads: random exits and crossable medians). Following tire tracks, we got up close—more impressive than Dachaidan Emerald Lake.
Two hours later, we reached Delingha, a quiet provincial capital. Nearby, the Tuosu Lake "Alien Ruins" site was closed, another missed opportunity.
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Day 10: Delingha - Heimahe (Qinghai Lake)
Another late start, then a three-hour drive to Heimahe. Passing Chaka Salt Lake, we saw its white expanse but skipped it—overcrowded and requiring perfect weather (sunny, cloudless, windless).
Our homestay, *Shengshui Fudi Lakeview*, was the closest to the lake (2 km from Dongge’er Viewpoint). Basic but with breathtaking views. Of all the lakes on this trip, Mangya Emerald Lake dazzled at first sight, while Qinghai Lake left a lasting impression—I’d return.
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Day 11: Heimahe - Xining
The final day’s plan to loop the lake was foiled by the Qinghai Lake Cycling Race (roads closed all morning). An international event—unexpected but memorable. No trip is perfect; we’ll return to complete the loop.
Driving back to Xining along the lake, we passed vast rapeseed fields—sky, lake, and flowers blending into a stunning panorama.
Qinghai, until next time.
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**Food Notes:**
- Most meals were picked via *Dazhong Dianping* (high-rated nearby spots). Prices were reasonable except for whole roasted lamb.
- *Jingyuan Galiu* in Dunhuang: Overhyped but decent.
- *Northeast Iron Pot Private Kitchen* in Mangya: Highly recommended—hilarious owner, Zhao Benshan vibes.
- *Cha’s Bone-in Meat* near Delingha: Excellent.
- *Yangjiazhuang Earth Kiln Roast Lamb*: Solid.
- Watermelons and yogurt in Gansu/Qinghai: Universally delicious.
- Street barbecue: No bad options.
**Packing Tips (July 1–11):**
- Daytime: T-shirt + thin sun jacket (UV protection is critical—I got sunburned in two hours at Qarhan).
- Early mornings/nights: Light insulated jacket (no need for heavy layers unless sunrise-chasing).
- Shoes: Comfortable sneakers or stylish boots (e.g., Dr. Martens).
- Photography: Drone essential for vistas like Emerald Lake panoramas, Water Yadan sunsets, Heicheng Mountain, and Mars Highway No. 1.
That’s a wrap!