The Art of Bamboo Noodles at Lau Sum Kee
Lau Sum Kee is a historic restaurant in Sham Shui Po. As a third-generation owned noodle shop, the restaurant has been making its famous zuk sing noodles for over 70 years. The restaurant started in the 1940s, when the grandfather of the current owner, Lau Fat Cheong, was selling zuk sing noodles in Guangzhou’s streets. Lau Fat Cheong’s father came to Hong Kong during the Civil War of China, and began selling its signature, handmade zuk sing noodles in the streets of Shau Kei Wan.
It then found its roots in the equally famous food haven of Sham Shui Po in the 1950s. In the 1970s, the family acquired the license to run a dai pai dong (street stall restaurant) in Sham Shui Po. It found its permanent home in the 1970s when they secured a proper restaurant space, also in Sham Shui Po.
Bamboo Noodles, A Comfort Food for Hong Kong People
The traditional technique for making zuk sing noodles involves the use of a long bamboo staff to apply pressure on the noodle dough. The dough is placed on one end of the two-meter bamboo staff. The chef making the noodles uses his own body weight to press on the other end.
Sodium bicarbonate, commonly known as baking soda, is a common ingredient in both the making and the cooking of bamboo noodles. Baking soda consists of potassium carbonate and sodium carbonate. Mixed with hot water, these two compounds will give the zuk sing noodles its enchanting texture — silky, chewy and bouncy on the roof of your mouth.
Boiling baking soda with hot water is a common way to both make the noodle dough and to cook the noodles. Making noodles this way will also preserve the noodles longer. The baking soda water that is used for cooking the noodles is never served in the bowl. Instead, a prepared broth is used as the soup base that is served with the wonton noodles.
The noodles at Lau Sum Kee are my favorite bamboo noodles in Hong Kong.
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Helen Yu (Chestnut Journal)