Staying at a 130-Year-Old Scholar's Mansion: Finding Serenity in Weishan, Yunnan

I've been to Dali countless times, but the place that truly transported me back in time was the YiHe Yunxi Jinshi Di in Weishan. This courtyard was formerly the residence of Zhao Guotai, a successful candidate in the imperial examination of 1892 (the 18th year of the Guangxu Emperor's reign). Built in 1895, it's a full 130 years old. The echoes of scholars and the spirit of literati are still palpable within its meticulously restored walls. The YiHe team dedicated seven years to its restoration, preserving every brick and tile as a testament to time. 🏡 Stepping into a 130-Year-Old Story Pushing open the gate is like stepping into a fold in time. The courtyard unfolds in a three-entry, four-courtyard layout, each themed after a season. Within, you'll discover Qing Dynasty lotus flower pillars, "bottle saddles" collected from Hui villages, late Qing Dynasty mortise and tenon window lattices, and even a mural of "Fisherman's Gain" from 1895. Every detail is captivating, inviting you to pause and admire. The roof tiles, eave decorations, ancient well, and tile cats are all relics of the late Qing Dynasty, whispering tales of the courtyard's former glory. Time seems to slow down here. Sunlight filters through the lattice windows, a gentle breeze rustles through the bamboo grove, and the air is thick with the stories of this ancient residence. 🛏 Guest Rooms: Designed by the Aman Team, Exuding Relaxation My room, the Zhenlin Room, features high ceilings with exposed wooden beams and a view of the lush courtyard. Designed by the Aman team's Hong Kong BHD, the room is minimalist yet full of thoughtful details. Yi ethnic tie-dye cushions adorn the bed, a hand-drawn map of Nanzhao rests on the table, and the minibar is stocked with complimentary Chu oranges and sparkling water, all adding a touch of luxury. I especially loved the interplay of light and shadow—the dappled morning sunlight through the lattice windows, the warm and gentle afternoon glow, and the soft evening light spilling into the room. Every moment is a photo opportunity. Lying in bed, I couldn't help but feel a sense of tranquility. Time slowed down, and my mind relaxed. I brewed a pot of tea, picked up a book, and simply enjoyed the stillness of this centuries-old courtyard. 🍽 Breakfast, Dinner & Unique Experiences The breakfast was a feast, served individually, with Weishan baitsi or rice noodles, steamed cakes, fruit cups, rice porridge, fried eggs, yogurt, and juice. Dinner at the hotel's Qionglin Xiaoyan featured Yiliang duck, steam pot chicken, pork tendon with pickled chili, stir-fried vegetables, local black pork sausage, seasonal broad beans, and rice flower tea—a true taste of Yunnan. The hotel also offers a variety of cultural heritage experiences, such as Jiama painting, sachet making, tie-dyeing, and even a night tour of Weishan Ancient City, immersing you in the charm of this thousand-year-old town. ☕ Slow Living in the Courtyard In the Luming Garden, a jade pavilion overlooks a pond filled with koi, shaded by ancient trees. It's the perfect spot to sip tea, daydream, and lose track of time. Further on, a blue-and-white, North African-inspired succulent garden is home to peacocks, alpacas, and sika deer. With snacks in hand, you can enjoy close encounters with these gentle creatures. Every corner of the courtyard exudes a sense of relaxation. There's no pressure to check off a list, no hustle and bustle, just the peace and quiet of a place steeped in history. 📍 Location & Transportation Weishan, the ancient capital of the Nanzhao Kingdom, predates Dali Ancient City and boasts the most well-preserved collection of Ming and Qing Dynasty architecture in Yunnan. YiHe Yunxi Jinshi Di is tucked away on the main north-south street, 150 meters south of Gongchen Tower. Its unassuming entrance belies the hidden gem within. Weishan is a 22-minute train ride from Dali and about a 1.5-hour taxi ride from Dali's city center. Direct trains are also available from Kunming and Lijiang, making it relatively easy to reach.