Kunozan Toshogu Shrine: A Testament to Tokugawa Ieyasu's Legacy

Japan's First Toshogu Shrine, Symbolizing the Power of the Edo Shogunate, Deeply Imbued with the Spirit of Ieyasu Tokugawa Ieyasu (1542–1616), the founder of the Edo Shogunate, retired to Sunpu, the capital of Suruga Province (modern-day eastern Shizuoka Prefecture), after passing the title of shogun to his son, Hidetada (1579–1632). From Sunpu, Ieyasu continued to oversee the shogunate's governance. This dual leadership between Hidetada in Edo and Ieyasu in Sunpu not only solidified the shogunate's rule but also greatly promoted the industry and culture of Sunpu, leading to unprecedented development of the castle town. Even in retirement, Ieyasu remained actively involved in politics, witnessing the fall of the Toyotomi clan during the Siege of Osaka. He passed away on April 17, 1616, at Sunpu Castle. Before his death, Ieyasu left specific instructions for his funeral: his remains were to be interred at Mount Kunozan in Suruga Province, and after the first anniversary of his death, they were to be enshrined at Nikko in Shimotsuke Province (modern-day Tochigi Prefecture). Hidetada and his close retainers faithfully carried out these wishes. Mount Kunozan, located in the southern outskirts of Sunpu's castle town, is a 200-meter-high mountain adjacent to Nihondaira, a scenic area known since ancient times. Historically, it was home to Kunozan Temple and later served as a fortress built by Takeda Shingen (1521–1573) to protect Sunpu. For the people of Sunpu, Mount Kunozan was both a spiritual and physical cornerstone, a sentiment Ieyasu deeply valued during his lifetime. In 1617, Ieyasu was posthumously granted the title "Tosho Daigongen," and the shogunate established Kunozan Toshogu Shrine to enshrine him as a deity. This marked the origin of the Kunozan Toshogu Shrine we see today. The shrine became a sacred site for the shogunate, receiving devoted worship and protection from successive shoguns and feudal lords across Japan. Even today, the shrine's grandeur remains intact. Visitors ascend 1,159 stone steps from the base of the mountain to reach the vermilion-lacquered gate and the massive stone lanterns donated by feudal lords, showcasing the shrine's impressive scale and meticulous craftsmanship. The shrine's main hall, designated as a National Treasure, epitomizes its splendor. Built in the Gongen-zukuri architectural style by master craftsman Nakai Masakiyo (1565–1619), it later served as the prototype for Toshogu shrines nationwide, including Nikko. The structure's robust design and vividly colored wall paintings are highlights, offering a feast for the eyes as visitors explore the surrounding area. Behind the main hall stands Ieyasu's mausoleum, a 5.5-meter-tall structure surrounded by lush greenery, where sunlight filters through the trees, creating a serene atmosphere that has welcomed countless visitors over the centuries. While the shrine's buildings were constructed after Ieyasu's death, the Kunozan Toshogu Museum, located midway up the mountain, houses and displays artifacts closely associated with Ieyasu. These items, preserved in their original form from Sunpu Castle, provide a glimpse into Ieyasu's life and personality. From furniture and eyeglasses that hint at his physical stature to medicine boxes and classical texts that reflect his intellect and character, the collection is invaluable. Among the most notable exhibits is a glass medicine box containing medicines personally prepared by Ieyasu, a rarity of extraordinary significance. The museum's most famous artifact is a Western clock, a gift from King Philip III of Spain (1578–1621) in gratitude for the shogunate's rescue of Spanish sailors from a shipwreck. Ieyasu is said to have cherished this clock, which was crafted in 1581 by a master artisan in Madrid. Its intricate and exquisite design is unparalleled. Given that many similar items were lost during Europe's turbulent wars, the Kunozan Toshogu clock, which retains most of its original 16th-century components, is globally significant. In 2012, researchers from the British Museum visited to study it. While the Edo Shogunate is often perceived as isolationist, this clock's presence suggests that Ieyasu himself had an open-minded and progressive side, challenging the conventional image of the shogunate's inward-looking policies. Solo Travel Recommendation: ★★★ (Moderately crowded, but the spacious grounds make it comfortable) Visit Date: Third Sunday of February, around 2 PM