Tsuru-no-yu – A place we visit even though we don’t stay

October 20, 2025 – Nyuto Onsen, Akita, Japan I had planned to stay at Tsuru-no-yu, the oldest hot spring in Nyūtō Onsen-kyō village. However, upon checking the website, all the rooms were already booked before April. It's one of the hardest places to book—some people even book almost a year in advance to soak in the milky white springs amidst the snow. Even though I missed out on the opportunity, I still felt fortunate to have stayed at one of the village's seven springs. Before our arrival, I had a little time left, so I decided to visit and see for myself—a spring that's over three centuries old. The road from the base of the mountain is quiet and narrow, with autumn leaves lining the road like a canvas. Along the way, I could see the faint steam wafting through the rocks, signaling that the hot springs are nearby. Tsuru-no-yu is located in Towada-Hachimantai National Park, an area where mountains and underground springs have coexisted for thousands of years. The hot springs here were discovered around the 17th century and served as a convalescent home for samurai from the Kubota Domain during the Edo period. People at that time called it "Yutomura" (湯治村) — a village of healing, not just for soaking in the waters but also for healing their hearts from their long journeys. Legend has it that one day, an injured wild crane flew down to soak its leg in the hot springs in the valley. Within a few days, its wound healed, and the villagers named it "Tsuru no Yu." Tsuru (鶴) means "crane," and yu (湯) means "hot water," symbolizing the regeneration and gentleness of nature. At the entrance, a black wooden sign painted with Japanese calligraphy gradually appears. The thick thatched roof is beginning to sprout green moss, but everything remains strong and peaceful, as if time had never passed. The man standing to greet guests in a "happi" robe is a bridge connecting past and present. He may be the fourth-generation heir to the family that runs this onsen. Every bow and greeting is a welcome sign. “Irasshaimase” (いらっしゃいませ) is steeped in respect for the culture of “omotenashi” (おもてなし)—the art of hospitality that requires no explanation but sincerity. The two foreign tourists standing before him are no different from pilgrims in the Edo period, except they have swapped their kimonos for sweaters and wooden chests for backpacks. What they are seeking is perhaps the same—“peace and escape from the noise of the modern world.” I walked to a small stream running through the center of the village. An old wooden bridge crosses the crystal clear water, and behind them are black wooden houses covered with straw and moss—the scene seems to have frozen in time between seasons. Tsurunoyu has four main springs. Each spring has its own unique color, scent, and mineral content. The milky white water is made from sulfur mixed with sodium carbonate, known for its ability to relieve aches and pains and relax muscles. Other springs can be crystal clear, or dark gray from iron ore. This diversity is what has earned it the title of “The Best of Tsurunoyu.” "The Natural Hot Spring Museum" The most famous outdoor bath is the mixed-gendered Konyoku Onsen, which allows men and women to bathe together freely. This isn't out of courage, but because of a culture that views bathing as a return to nature. Everyone is equal in the warm waters, without clothing or status, just their bodies, breathing in and relaxing. I didn't soak in the legendary white bath, but just walking around, I could understand why it has such an enduring allure. The smell of sulfur permeates the air, the sound of the stream, and the color of the old wood, seasons of snow, all combine to create the "scent of time"—a strange, sweet scent, like a warm memory lingering in someone's heart. Before leaving, I stood looking at the wooden sign at the entrance again, thinking to myself that if I ever have the chance to return to Akita, I'd like to try reserving a spot here. Maybe next time—we might actually stay in a crane-shaped bath. #NyutoOnsen #Akita #AutumnJapan #JapanOnsen #TravelJapan #JapaneseOnsen