Nujiang Lisu Autonomous Prefecture - A Hidden Gem in Western Yunnan

Nujiang Lisu Autonomous Prefecture is located in the western part of Yunnan Province, within the Nujiang Gorge of the Hengduan Mountains, bordering Myanmar to the west. G219 serves as the main (and perhaps the only) transportation route running north-south through the prefecture. The road conditions on the Nujiang section of G219 are excellent, but as you continue from Bingzhongluo Town towards Chayu County in Nyingchi City, the road conditions suddenly deteriorate, turning into the famous 'Bingcha-Cha' crossing route. Our trip focused on Nujiang Prefecture and was conducted in winter. Daytime temperatures in the dry-hot valley can exceed 20 degrees Celsius, but nighttime temperatures are low, so be sure to adjust your clothing accordingly. The Nu River is majestic and grand during the summer flood season, while in winter, it shows a quieter side. Without the influx of rainwater carrying sediment, the quiet waters of the Nu River in winter reveal a rare blue color, like a gemstone. Not far into Nujiang Prefecture, you will reach the capital, Lushui City. The county town is built along the Nujiang Gorge, with a narrow and long structure. The local economy is not highly developed, and the roads in the town are narrow with compact houses due to the terrain. Less than an hour's drive from Lushui City, you can reach Dengeng Bathhouse. Dengeng Bathhouse is a free natural hot spring located by the Nu River. During the flood season, the rising waters of the Nu River submerge it, while in the dry season, it emerges. Many local Nu and Lisu people enjoy soaking in the hot spring and are very enthusiastic about introducing the area to visitors. The hot spring is highly recommended. Near the hot spring, you can also experience the Nu River zip line, a paid activity developed by local villagers. The zip line is a traditional way for locals to cross the river before bridges were built. A round trip costs 50 yuan and is quite thrilling. Heading upstream along G219, you can stay in Laomudeng Village. It is recommended to stay in a high-altitude guesthouse to enjoy views of the Nujiang Gorge, Crown Mountain, and even the perennial snow on Gaoligong Mountain. The local people are simple and honest, and prices are not high. The guesthouse owner where we stayed was a Nu girl who was very hospitable and cooked delicious traditional local food. Further up from Laomudeng Village is the former capital of Nujiang Prefecture, the lost town of Zhiziluo. Zhiziluo was once a major transportation hub connecting Nujiang Prefecture with the outside world, with frequent trade and gradual development. However, due to geological factors, all residents moved to Lushui City, leaving behind an empty town that still retains the appearance of the last century. Continuing south, you will pass Shiyueliang. Shiyueliang is a rock formation with a large circular hole in the middle, formed by erosion. Later, the mountain body uplifted, pushing it to the top of the mountain, resembling a full moon. You can view it from a viewing platform beside G219, and you should also be able to climb up if you enter the scenic area. The innermost part of Nujiang Prefecture is the famous Bingzhongluo Township. Overlooking from the viewing platform, it is indeed a place where immortals reside. The houses on the dam are scattered, with snow-capped mountains above and the rushing Nu River below. Occasionally, you can hear the crowing of roosters and barking of dogs, with smoke curling up from the rooftops, presenting a peaceful scene. The first bend of the Nu River is also spectacular, and it is recommended to go to the viewing platform on the mountain top, which all the guesthouse owners know how to reach. Crossing the Nujiang Gorge to the west, you can reach Dulongjiang Township. If you are lucky, you may see tattooed women, but the road conditions are poor, and you need to make a reservation to enter. Precautions: 1. Driving in the valley, be cautious of falling rocks on cliffside roads. 2. There are many blind turns, so slow down and drive carefully. 3. Adjust your clothing in a timely manner. 4. Respect religious beliefs. French missionaries preached in Nujiang Prefecture in the last century, and there are churches and a certain number of Christians in the area (such as in Laomudeng). After passing Bingzhongluo, you will soon enter the Tibetan area, where Tibetan Buddhism also appears as you go further in.