A hidden gem for summer escapes around Tokyo, off-season hot springs

Nikko, two hours from Tokyo, is famous for its peak autumn foliage season. After lying on my bucket list for a long time, I finally discovered that it’s also a popular summer retreat and hiking destination for Japanese people. 🚶 No hesitation in choosing the hotel—I stayed at the world’s only Ritz-Carlton with hot springs, especially since friends who had been there recommended it many times. 🐂 (Soaking in the hot springs in the cool mornings and evenings is really comfortable!) ☺️ First of all, the hardware and aesthetics are truly impeccable; you feel the quality as soon as you enter. Yohei Akao, the former lead designer of Super Potato, really mastered the play of light and shadow, with various changes visible from morning till night. 🥹 The handling of light sources and shifting shadows is a real visual treat, and the materials and details are all top-notch. 🥸 I have to say, the Ritz-Carlton brand is really well nurtured in Japan, with Fukuoka and Kyoto locations being very impressive. But surprisingly, the service here was quite disappointing, not at the same level as the Kyoto hotel. On the first night, I got seriously misled by the butler. 😳 He strongly recommended a Kanazawa famous ramen collaboration at the bar, but it was way too salty! 🤬 Luckily, the cocktails were indeed good, and the fruit platter covered in gold leaf was a nice bonus. The butler called the lakehouse Western restaurant “pretty but average in taste,” but it actually turned out to be the best dining option in the hotel. As for the Japanese restaurant, I just wanted a simple sukiyaki, but it required a 24-hour advance reservation… and the service was totally lagging when I finally ate there. 🫡 However, the in-room dining breakfast was excellent in both quality and service. The SPA & Wellness facilities were also very good, so I mostly stayed soaking in the gym and hot springs, without exploring too many other places. 🥰 But the must-visit is definitely the World Cultural Heritage site, Toshogu Shrine. It’s dedicated to Tokugawa Ieyasu, and its scale and design are quite astonishing—truly unique and worth seeing just for the aesthetic experience. At the foot of the mountain, you’ll first see Rinnoji Temple, but after visiting Toshogu Shrine, you can totally skip it. There’s even a Beams store nearby selling many Nikko exclusives, which is adorable. 🇬🇧 The second favorite hotel nearby spot is the British Embassy Villa Memorial Park. As the former British Embassy, it offers stunning lake views and is perfect for zoning out on the second floor! If you’re lucky, you can enjoy English afternoon tea there. I highly recommend cycling from the hotel! 🚴 Of course, a more convenient attraction is the Kegon Falls, one of Japan’s three famous waterfalls, just a five-minute walk from the hotel with an elevator straight down! It’s a super effortless way to get close to nature—majestic and elegant. Most importantly, visiting in summer is a great way to cool off, like a natural air conditioner. In short, the Nikko trip was very enjoyable. I’ll definitely want to return during the autumn foliage season and winter!