Exploring the Wild Secret Realm of Shushan—Reverse Drive on the Genie South Route

【Introduction】: Western Sichuan, with its unique geography and unparalleled scenery, has drawn us to embark on this enchanting journey multiple times. This time, we decided to venture through the Genie South Route, an off-road driving trail hidden deep in the Western Sichuan Plateau. After much consideration, we chose to reverse traverse Genie starting from Batang. 🕘【Preparation】: Study guides, download offline maps, and stock up on supplies. Vehicle: Many sections of this Western Sichuan trip are unpaved roads, with potholes being common, so an SUV is essential. Essential medicines: Acetazolamide (for altitude sickness prevention), paracetamol-caffeine tablets (for headaches), zolpidem tartrate tablets (for sleep aid), glucose powder and American ginseng slices (to be dissolved in hot water), oxygen bags (just in case). 🚌【Transportation】: Self-driving is the only option. 👉【Accommodation】: There are many guesthouses in Zeba Village and Lower Zetong Village, but conditions are average. We chose the oxygen-enriched rooms in Ranrika Village, which offer better conditions. 🕘【Notes】: 1. There are no gas stations or mobile signals along the entire Genie South Route, so prepare fuel for over 250 kilometers in Batang and download offline maps. 2. The first dozen kilometers before Hangda Camp are full of bomb crater roads that easily cause tire punctures and undercarriage damage. Drive carefully; an SUV takes about 1 hour to pass. 3. Many attractions in Western Sichuan are undeveloped. Local villagers have built some dirt roads and provide simple services and management, charging small fees at entrances for cleaning, parking, or tickets, usually 20-30 yuan per person, which is reasonable. Do not evade fees, as villagers may impose fines if caught, causing disputes. 💴【Route Details】: The secret reverse traverse of the Genie South Route from Batang to Litang covers about 250 kilometers. We planned a 2-day, 1-night trip. From Batang — Zawala Pass (5100m) — Gemu Village — Bomi Township — Lao Zhe Longba Pass (4700m) — Reti Valley — Bomb Crater Road — Hangda Camp — Zeba Village (Zeba Secret Realm) — Lenggu Temple — Eye of Genie — Ranrika Village (Lower Zetong Village, with a wild hot spring at the village entrance) — Genie Cabin — Yilaka Viewing Platform — Nahai — Blacksmith Mountain Pass — Litang. ⛺【Main Attractions】: The Genie South Route crosses three mountain passes above 4500 meters. Key sights include Zawala Pass, Zeba Secret Realm, Hangda Camp, Eye of Genie, New Lenggu Temple, Yilaka Viewing Platform, and Nahai. 1. Zawala Pass: At 5100 meters, this is the first pass we reached. The scenery is raw and harsh, with steep slopes of mixed gravel and soil piercing the sky. Two sharp peaks stand side by side, barren and gray-brown, resembling a gloomy "Gate of Hell." Yet, the mountain hollow is carpeted with golden meadows dotted with sapphire-blue ponds, like jewels scattered on a carpet, adding romance and beauty to the desolate Zawala. 2. Gemu Village, Bomi Township: The smoke from Tibetan homes mingles with soft light. On the vast grasslands, stone and wood houses nestle by the mountains and water. At the village entrance, a Mani stone pile is stacked like pages of a book, with the six-syllable mantra flowing among the stones. 3. Lao Zhe Longba Pass: Compared to the rugged Zawala Pass, this pass is more open. On both sides lie rolling alpine meadows, with towering snow-capped peaks in the distance. The valley flows not only with streams but also with shifting light and color. From the pass, the outline of Reti Valley unfolds at the valley’s end. 4. Reti Valley: The most "lively" secret realm on the Genie South Route. The entire valley is covered in golden hues, with a stream flowing like a resting dragon in the valley. Deep in the valley, Tibetan rammed earth homes are scattered, blending harmoniously with the natural surroundings. 5. Hangda Camp: Surrounded by snow-capped mountains, a few horses stroll on the hillside. Blue, white, and yellow tents are pitched on the pasture. This is the famed "paradise for hikers and camping enthusiasts." The camp faces the southern slope of Genie Sacred Mountain, offering a 360-degree unobstructed view. The snowy peaks of Genie’s south slope gleam right before your eyes. Local herders provide simple camping services such as tent rentals, basic toilets, and simple meals. 6. Zeba Secret Realm: Zeba Village (also called Chachongxi Village) is undergoing major construction to build guesthouses. Walking along the village paths, you see no one ahead or behind; only you and Genie Sacred Mountain coexist in the vastness, hearing your own breath, finally understanding the "power of walking." Time seems to slow down; primitiveness and tranquility are the most touching colors of this secret realm. At the end of the path is a small stream, with a wooden bridge hung with colorful prayer flags quietly waving to the nearby Mani stone pile. 7. New Lenggu Temple: Lenggu Temple has old and new parts. The old Lenggu Temple lies in a valley beneath Genie Sacred Mountain’s main peak at about 4800 meters elevation. It is over 1000 years old, built by disciples of Marpa Lotsawa, founder of the Kagyu school of Tibetan Buddhism, and is one of the oldest temples in the Kham region. Due to high altitude and difficult access, it fell into disrepair, so the new Lenggu Temple was built. The new temple, constructed in 2005 at a lower altitude, houses a retreat center where many monks practice in seclusion and is open to visitors. During our visit, monks were chanting collectively, and I quietly sat in the prayer hall with the devotees for the first time. The chanting involved many instruments, including ritual bells, hand drums, large drums, dungchen horns, wooden fish, and many others I had never seen before. 8. Eye of Genie: The soul of the Genie South Route. A circular alpine lake several dozen meters in diameter, nestled in the middle of a high mountain meadow. From the air, the lake’s outline resembles a giant eye, with a deep blue pupil surrounded by rings of light green meadows as the iris. The main peak of Genie Sacred Mountain is perfectly reflected in the "pupil," creating the spectacular "Sacred Mountain gazing at the earth" phenomenon. The water is crystal clear, reflecting the clouds and snowy peaks, as if heaven and earth merge here. The viewing platform is built on the mountain behind the Eye, but it is far and at high altitude, so few hike there. Evening and early morning light are the best times for photos. 9. Nahai: A little-known alpine lake deep in Genie Sacred Mountain’s heartland. Its entrance is at a sharp bend on the mountain road and is easy to miss. Genie Nahai and its sister lake in Litang, Western Sichuan, are twin lakes connected but each with unique features. Nahai lies deep on the Genie South Route at about 3800 meters, surrounded by rolling alpine meadows. The blue lake is set among golden grasslands and gray-black mountains, rich in color yet quiet and mysterious, with pristine ecology and very few visitors. The sister lake is located in the Haizi Mountain Nature Reserve at 4685 meters elevation. Passing vehicles on National Highway 318 often stop to admire it, making it a popular spot. The two lakes respectively showcase the tranquility of secret lakes and the grandeur of roadside scenery. 10. Blacksmith Mountain Pass (4770m): The last "heavenly gate" on the reverse traverse of the Genie South Route. The pass is broad, with mountains increasingly covered by stones and rock slabs on both sides, gray-brown in color, with wind erosion marks resembling iron forged by a blacksmith. The entire pass looks like a huge gravel pit, desolate and awe-inspiring. 【Conclusion】If you hurry, the reverse traverse of the Genie South Route can be done in one day, but the schedule is tight and involves driving at night, which is unsafe. The stunning beauty and shock of this Genie South Route journey will forever remain in our memories. Genie Mountain Eye of Genie Nahai Hangda Camp