Arashiyama Autumn Notes｜Collecting Dynasty Stories Amid Red Leaves and Flowing Water

When the maple leaves in Kyoto city are still between green and yellow, I boarded the Sagano Scenic Railway train bound for Arashiyama. This millennium-old secret place embraced by the Katsura River carries the quietness of crimson maples and incense in the November wind. The bamboo forest sways like a green harp in the morning mist, and the entire mountain range resembles an overturned maki-e lacquer and mother-of-pearl box, flowing with melodies of scarlet, gold, and decayed leaf colors under the autumn sun. --- 🍁 Two-Day Travel Guide Transportation: Take the Keifuku Electric Railroad to Arashiyama Station; recommended to purchase a five-day Sagano Scenic Railway pass Season: Mid-November to early December, when the morning frost first falls, the maple leaves are most brilliant Night Viewing: Check for special night visits at Tenryu-ji Temple, Hōgan-in Temple, and others 🌅 Day One: Imperial Autumn Colors · Morning · Togetsukyo Bridge Stand in the middle of the bridge at dawn, watching the Hozu River reflect the continuous red cliffs in the mist. Rent a vermilion boat to drift downstream, the boatman humming "Ogura Hyakunin Isshu" as he poles, startling egrets whose wing tips skim the water like scattered gold. · Morning · Tenryu-ji Abbot’s Quarters Sit quietly in the corridor of the Sogen Pond Garden, where Mount Kameyama and red leaves form a living "Four Seasons Picture Scroll." The tea room grandmother brings yuzu-filled kudzu mochi: "The Zen insight that Muso Soseki had here is hidden in the arrangement of the pond stones." · Afternoon · Jojakko-ji Secret Realm Climb the stone steps of the Niomon Gate, where thatched eaves and maple branches weave a vermilion tunnel. At the observation deck, meet an old painter sketching; he points out how to observe light and shadow: "At sunset, the Tahoto Pagoda turns into a burning phoenix." · Dusk · Bamboo Grove Path After the tourists have left, walk into the bamboo grove. At the moment the night lights come on, thousands of bamboo shadows suddenly transform into the ghostly procession from "The Tale of Genji." An old woman selling grilled dumplings says, "The bamboo leaves here always carry the moonlight of the Seiryo-den." 🎑 Day Two: Seeking Seclusion in the Secret Realm · Early Morning · Gio-ji Temple In front of the thatched hut of the tragic nun from "The Tale of the Heike," the moss garden and maple leaves form a blood-red velvet carpet. Kneeling in the Jizo Hall copying sutras, the moment the brush touches the sandalwood paper, it feels as if you hear the sigh of a white fan sleeve brushing past a blue lamp. · Morning · Hōgan-in Moss Enter the hidden path behind Shishigoe Rock and discover 800 types of moss stretching under the maple trees like an emerald sea. The gardening monk is collecting fallen leaves to make "Maple Leaf Paper," sharing half a sheet with you to send a short letter to the afterlife. · Afternoon · Rakushisha Leisure Under the persimmon tree at the former residence of Mukai Kyorai, eat bracken mochi. Ripe fruit suddenly falls, splattering sweet ink spots on your skirt. The cat at the neighboring teahouse will lead you to find the linked verse manuscript left by Matsuo Basho. · Sunset · Oi River Boat Ride Ride a Tang Dynasty-style gull-headed boat upstream. The boatwoman plays "Arashiyama Night Mooring" on the shamisen. As lanterns on both banks light up one by one, the entire river suddenly becomes a flowing ukiyo-e. --- 🍵 Autumn Secret Rituals · Tea Boat Offering: Experience a floating tea ceremony on a roofed boat on the Hozu River, placing maple leaves inscribed with your thoughts into the flowing water · Moss Ball Making: Learn to make moss balls wrapped around maple seeds at Adashino Nenbutsu-ji Temple; next spring, they will sprout patterns from the "Kokinshu" anthology on your windowsill · Buddha Rubbing Pilgrimage: Use washi paper to rub the thirteen Buddhas at Nonomiya Shrine, mixing crushed maple leaf juice into the ink --- "Arashiyama’s autumn taught me: true brilliance is not about competing for beauty, but like the maples of Jojakko-ji—only revealing the fullest pulse of life at the moment they fall."