【Waterside Jiangnan: Touching the 900-Year-Old Heartbeat of the Water Town in Zhouzhuang】

At five in the morning, Zhouzhuang stretches its limbs to the sound of oars. In the mist over Zhongshi River, the pointed corners of boatwomen’s blue printed headscarves skim the water, and the copper bells on the black-awning boats gently ring along with the swaying baskets of water caltrops. On the bluestone paths, an elderly man selling Wansan cake lifts the bamboo steamer lid, and the fragrance of rice mixed with the river breeze slips through the carved window frames, waking the copper sparrows sleeping under the eaves. Heading east along Yinzi Bang, Shuangqiao (Twin Bridges) reveals its true form as the "Key Bridge" in the morning light. The stone arch bridge and stone beam bridge span the cross-shaped waterway side by side, their arches reflecting the passing boats like ink wash paintings outlined by ancient craftsmen with bricks and stones. To the west of the bridge stands the Shen Hall, a grand mansion with seven courtyards and five gate towers, still holding the legend of "wealth rivaling a nation." The dragon carvings on the main hall’s beams seem to still tell the tale of Shen Wansan and his treasure bowl. Turning past Fu’an Bridge, the Zhang Hall’s wonder of "boats passing through the house" amazes visitors—the small river flows right through the residence, while beauties lean on the corridor, and an old woman dries freshly harvested water caltrops on bamboo trays. The liveliest time on Xiwang Street is in the afternoon. The kitchen of Shen Hall Restaurant wafts the aroma of sauce; Wansan pork hocks bubble in a clay pot, the tender hocks tied with red string, and when served, they are cut open with a special copper knife symbolizing "rising step by step." Next door at Grandma’s Tea Shop, white porcelain bowls hold Biluochun tea, paired with pickled eel vegetables, while old tea drinkers share stories of "Shen Wansan outwitting Zhu Yuanzhang." For a quieter moment, slip into Sanmao Teahouse, sit by the window, and watch the falling phoenix tree leaves land on a replica of Chen Yifei’s "Memories of Hometown." As dusk falls, it’s recommended to spend 150 yuan to charter a rowing boat. The boatwoman will take you through the Qinglong Bridge arch, where lanterns on both banks light up one after another, their reflections breaking into a flowing starry river on the water. Arriving at Xianjiang Bay, the light and shadow show "Only This Zhouzhuang" begins—the holographic projection casts the "Along the River During the Qingming Festival" painting onto white walls, drones mimic fireflies fluttering past flying eaves, and the finale is a water fire performance that startles the stars across the river. On weekends, the summer night market on Quanfulu Street is not to be missed, where intangible cultural heritage artisans make Wansan cake on site, and sugar painting masters create vivid koi fish with syrup. Stay overnight at a riverside guesthouse, where opening the window reveals the flowing city river. On rainy nights, sit under the corridor and listen to raindrops tapping on the green tiles, watching lanterns sway in the wind, casting blurred halos of light. The next morning, be sure to get up early to try a bowl of Aozao noodles, with explosive fish and shredded eel in red broth, accompanied by a plate of Luzhi radish—this is the true smoky flavor of the water town. Tips: • Tickets: 50 yuan per person on weekdays, 100 yuan on weekends and holidays. In 2025, middle and high school exam students can enter free with their admission ticket until August 31 and can book to watch the "Only This Zhouzhuang" show for free (limited to 50 people per day). • Recommended route: Shuangqiao (Twin Bridges) → Shen Hall → Zhang Hall → Quanfusi Temple → Night light and shadow show → Summer night market • Transportation: 45 minutes by car from Shanghai Hongqiao Airport; take Suzhou Metro Line 4, transfer to C10 bus to Zhouzhuang Bus Station, then switch to Route 261 to Xinpailou • Must-try foods: Shen Hall Restaurant’s Wansan pork hock (tender and flavorful), Grandma’s Tea Shop’s pickled eel vegetables (perfect with Biluochun tea), Wansan Cake Workshop’s freshly steamed rice cakes (best with osmanthus flavor) The beauty of Zhouzhuang is hidden in the everyday life where "boats pass through the house," immersed in the rich sauce aroma of the "Wansan family feast," and flows through every bluestone slab polished by time. When the morning light once again spreads over the eaves, you will suddenly understand: this ancient town favored by time is never a frozen specimen, but a living Jiangnan poem.