บันทึกเส้นทางโคลนสู่ Gergeti Trinity Church

In 2016, the small town of Stepantsminda, still known locally as Kazbegi, served as the gateway to the Caucasus Mountains. The Georgian Military Highway brought us to the foot of the mountain, but the journey up to the tiny church atop the hill required a memorable dirt road. Off-road vehicles lined up, waiting to pick up tourists. The road ahead was rugged, muddy, and deep, tire-shaped ruts, repetitively resembling natural ditches. The steep slopes required maximum effort, forcing the vehicle to sway with every impact. Each climb was a tug of war. As the hill climbed higher, the path opened up to reveal a solitary stone church, darting in the wind. Built in the 14th century at an altitude of over 2,000 meters above sea level, the church was once a significant religious and defensive site. During wartime, the townspeople of Mtskheta would bring the "Holy Cross" to hide there, as the height and difficulty of access provided the best protection. From the churchyard, we looked back towards Stepantsminda. Below, the small town is a pale speck in the vast landscape. Above, the 5,000-meter-high Mount Kazbek peak is covered in snow year-round. The howling wind adds a sacred, lonely atmosphere. An interesting fact is that the dirt road we saw that day had long been used as a "path of necessity." However, after 2017, the Georgian government began a project to replace it with a paved road. In November 2018, the new road officially opened, making travel much easier. Regular vehicles can now access it, eliminating the need for off-roading. This change has had a double effect: on the one hand, it has improved convenience and tourism, increasing local communities' incomes. On the other hand, some travelers feel the "charm of arrival" has disappeared. As the road improves, so does the sense of struggle. Whenever I look back at old photos, the rough mud tracks are no longer just roads. But it's proof that once upon a time, reaching Gergeti Trinity Church was a journey that required a small effort from both people and vehicles—a test that made a small church on a high mountain seem even more grand than it appeared. #Georgia