Discover the Historic Tsurunoyu Onsen in Japan
Tsurunoyu Onsen is the oldest hot spring inn in the Nyuto Onsen Village, named after a local legend where a hunter found an injured crane healing its wounds in the hot water. The main building, Honjin, with its thatched roof, is iconic of Tsurunoyu. We stayed in the new Honjin, which offers a traditional Japanese room that is clean and simple. The rooms are quite similar, and none have private onsens, so there's no need to worry about room features. Being in the mountains, there's no signal, and Wi-Fi is unreliable, so we ended up sleeping early around 7 PM.
The onsen offers natural hot springs with four different types of water: white, black, middle, and waterfall, each with a distinct sulfur scent. We experienced our first mixed-gender bath, which was initially daunting, but as it got darker and more women joined, it became less intimidating. For those who are shy, there's a women-only outdoor bath, which I found more comfortable. The falling snow was breathtaking, making it hard to leave the warm water.
In the evening, the inn is beautifully lit by lanterns. Meals include mountain vegetables and the inn's original yam hotpot made with miso, grilled rockfish, and seasonal ingredients. The inn provides breakfast and dinner, as there's nothing else available in the mountains. Dinner is served in the room and includes fish, with limited meat and lots of mushrooms. If you have allergies, inform the inn in advance, as they can accommodate requests, like switching soba for udon. Breakfast is served in a communal area on the first floor, offering a rich Japanese experience. If you're not used to sitting on cushions, you can request chairs and tables, and they even provide forks for foreigners.
The cost ranges from 9,000 to 16,000 yen per person, depending on room type, number of guests, and season. We booked a room for two at 29,700 yen with meals included, which was a lucky find as rooms are often booked months in advance. Tsurunoyu Onsen is part of the Japan Onsen Protection Association and a cultural heritage site, offering a unique Japanese experience. It's highly recommended for those who love mountain retreats and hidden gems.
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