Tongren Ancient City: A Historical Scroll Spanning 600 Years
Nestled among the mountains and waters in northeastern Guizhou, Tongren Ancient City shines like a dazzling pearl, exuding a unique charm. Established in 1451 AD, it has a history of nearly six centuries, witnessing the vicissitudes of time and carrying profound cultural heritage.
The ancient city is located in the heart of Tongren City, surrounded by water on three sides and backed by mountains on one side. The city layout is meticulous, with nine gates, three streets, and six alleys arranged in an orderly manner. Upon entering the ancient city, the first sight is the simple and solemn "Zhongnan Gate." As an important symbol of the ancient city, the gate is tall and majestic, exquisitely carved, and despite enduring centuries of weathering, it still stands proudly. Inside the city, old and new buildings coexist; there are ancient structures from the Ming and Qing dynasties that recall past prosperity and changes through centuries of rain and wind, as well as many newly built structures designed in traditional style with blue bricks, black tiles, and carved beams and painted rafters, harmonizing perfectly with the surrounding architecture.
We arrived at the ancient city near dusk. As night fell, the city slowly lit up, radiating a modern and youthful vibe. Especially when we discovered the Fanjing Starry Sky Art Museum inside the ancient city, it instantly stirred emotions. People who grew up in the mountains know that the starry sky is the best gift from the mountains, and it was unexpected to find it here on earth. In the evening, a concert was held at the ancient city square. We didn’t join the crowd but wandered through the bustling streets, strolling along the cobblestone alleys that gently connect every corner of the ancient city like ribbons, as if traveling through history and civilization.
Like most ancient cities, shops line both sides of the streets, offering a dazzling array of local specialties and handicrafts. The many cinnabar shops are especially eye-catching, with red cinnabar-carved pixiu (mythical creatures) and bracelets glowing dimly in glass cabinets. At the Tongren Memory Museum, the guide patiently told the legend of "Cinnabar Soul-Calming" and its wonderful use for sleep aid (insomnia remedy: 50g mugwort, 30g cassia seeds, 10g cinnabar powder, wrapped in a cloth bag and placed under the pillow). Cinnabar was also an essential material for ancient alchemy and talisman painting. The famous "Cinnabar Ancient Town" is less than 50 kilometers from the ancient city, said to preserve underground mining tunnels stretching hundreds of kilometers and mined for nearly a thousand years.
Stepping into the ancient city night market, you immediately feel the lively warmth of everyday life. The aroma of various local snacks fills the air, with signs reading "Sour Soup Fish" and "Rice Tofu" flickering in the warm light. The sour and spicy fragrance mingles with the sizzling sounds from the frying pans, enticing people deeper into the bustling scene. A young man grilled eggplants and pounded century eggs at the shop entrance, the aroma irresistible. Sitting inside, you can enjoy free samples of fancy cold drinks, sweet and refreshing, clearing the mind.
That night, we stayed at a guesthouse inside the ancient city.
The next morning, at dawn, the alleys were empty except for a few live streamers setting up tripods and narrating in front of their phones: "This is Tongren Ancient Town, a living museum of Ming and Qing architecture..." We noticed quite a few people live streaming in the ancient city these days, though we weren’t sure how they attract viewers.
On the left side of the ancient city stands a small hill, not very high but lush and serene. A temple with red walls and yellow tiles halfway up the hill stood out brightly in the morning light. From the hilltop railing, the entire ancient town curled up in a light morning mist, with the Jin River flowing like a green silk ribbon around the city. The modern high-rises on the opposite bank faded into the background like an ink wash painting. Many early-rising students, backpacks on, passed through the Father and Son Scholars Archway and the ancient alleys, becoming another scenic feature of the ancient city.
Coming down the hill, it was already past seven o’clock. The breakfast shops at the alley entrance were still preparing to open. Smoke lazily curled from the rooftops, and the bone broth at the rice noodle stall simmered through the night, snoring softly. Only the aroma escaping from the gaps in the steamers hinted at the awakening of daily life. The life in the ancient city was as fluffy and leisurely as half-cooked rice cakes in a steamer.
The charm of Tongren Ancient City lies precisely in this gap between day and night—the daytime bustling with lively markets and social life, the deep night settling into the warmth of history, while the copper bells hanging from the eaves of Dongshan Temple remain suspended above the noise, guarding this half city of fireworks and half city of Zen.
Tongren Travel Guide:
Transportation:
1. You can choose to fly to Tongren Fenghuang Airport or take the high-speed train to Tongren Station.
2. Driving is possible via the Hangrui Expressway or Tonghuai Expressway to Tongren.
Recommended Attractions:
1. Tongren Ancient City: Ming and Qing style architectural complex, surrounded by water on three sides, preserving ancestral halls, ancient residences, city walls, and other historical relics. Enjoy the light show at night.
2. Cinnabar Ancient Town: Centered on cinnabar culture and Miao ethnic customs, visit ancient mining tunnels, the cinnabar museum, and experience Miao song and dance performances.
3. Tongren Grand Canyon: Deep canyon with rapid waters and jagged rocks on both sides, ideal for summer rafting.
Accommodation:
1. Hotels: Plenty of options in the urban area with convenient transportation, shopping, and dining; recommended are Jinjiang Hotel and Tongren Jintan Hotel.
2. Guesthouses: You can choose guesthouses near Zhongnan Gate Ancient City for convenient travel and abundant local cuisine.
Cuisine:
1. Sour Soup Fish: A highly representative local dish known for its unique sour and spicy flavor, tender fish meat, and rich sour soup that whets the appetite and relieves greasiness.
2. Jiangkou Rice Tofu: Tender yellow and bright, crystal clear, with a sour, fragrant, spicy, and numbing taste, smooth and delicious.
3. Miao Sticky Rice Cake: Soft, glutinous, and sweet with rich fillings.
4. She Fan: Made with glutinous rice, wild onions, cured meat, and other ingredients, offering a rich and layered taste.
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