The Wind from the Grasslands—A Leisurely Stroll and Distant Views at Qingtiangang, Yangmingshan
Taipei's outskirts are home to many hidden gems where one can escape the hustle and bustle of city life, and Qingtiangang in Yangmingshan National Park is among the most serene and refreshing spots. This highland grassland, situated at an altitude of nearly 800 meters, boasts expansive terrain and sweeping views. As you gaze at the picturesque mountains and shifting clouds, every step feels like walking alongside the heavens and earth.
Starting early from Taipei's city center, you can take a bus winding up the mountain, passing through Zhuzihu and Lengshuikeng. The mist thickens as the altitude rises, and the summer heat of the city seems to vanish instantly. At the entrance to Qingtiangang, a stone archway welcomes visitors, leading to a well-maintained wooden boardwalk that stretches deep into the grasslands. On either side of the path, lush silvergrass and wildflowers sway gently in the breeze, while cattle graze peacefully in the distance, creating a pastoral scene.
What sets Qingtiangang apart is its ethereal and vast atmosphere. Once a military site during the Japanese colonial era and later used as pastureland, it has now become a retreat for urban dwellers seeking tranquility. Standing at the highest point of the grassland, you are surrounded by emptiness, with only the sound of rustling grass and distant cowbells. Above is the boundless sky, below are undulating grassy slopes, and your body and mind seem to relax in harmony with the surroundings.
In the afternoon, the mist often drifts in and out. At times, sunlight pierces through the clouds, bathing the grasslands in golden light; at other times, the fog envelops the area, making the distant mountains appear faint and dreamlike, akin to a fairyland. The interplay of light and shadow and the rhythm of nature far surpass any urban scenery. Occasionally, hikers pass by, nodding quietly in greeting, as if in this vast expanse, words and noise are unnecessary.
Following the boardwalk toward Lengshuikeng, you may spot wildflowers and ferns growing quietly along the path. The trail alternates between winding and steep sections, with each turn revealing new vistas. The sulfuric scent of Lengshuikeng's hot springs, carried by the mountain breeze, serves as a reminder of Yangmingshan's volcanic past. The emerald-green pools and forested trails hidden in the mist offer a deeper invitation to connect with nature.
As the sun sets, Qingtiangang is bathed in a gentle golden hue. The cattle slowly make their way toward the enclosures, and visitors begin heading toward the exit. Reluctant to leave this peaceful and expansive place, I take a slow, final glance back. The setting sun illuminates the distant mountains, resembling a delicate watercolor painting gradually closing.
Qingtiangang may not be a site of dramatic wonders, but its tranquility, vastness, wind, and grass are enough to cleanse the weariness of urban travelers. Here, time is no longer measured by the ticking of a clock but by the rhythm of the wind and the pace of the clouds. As I depart, I silently wish for another reunion with the stirring grass and wind.