Shanghai | Qianjing Xiaozhu: A Glimpse into a Century of Republican Life in Shikumen
In March, I went to Shanghai for the Egypt exhibition ending this year and also for the "Shanghai Museum" of my dreams.
As someone in the homestay business, I have my own way of choosing hotels and homestays. This is also the first time I seriously recommend a peer’s place, analyzing and recommending a hotel or homestay from a professional perspective rather than just beautifying it like bloggers who only focus on the experience.
I finally chose to stay two nights at "Shanghai Qianjing Xiaozhu Boutique Hotel" because it is housed in a building with a century of history. As the operator of "Fanxi," we also have over 180 years of history. "Qianjing" dates back to the Republican era, while "Fanxi" is from the late Qing dynasty. The owner has restored the exterior and interior decor to be modern yet nostalgic. If you understand, or if you have ever been to a residential old foreign-style house, you will appreciate many of the precious details here.
The Shikumen alleys are not deep, but at a glance, they look extremely chaotic and full of life. Those still living here, besides some shop owners, are mostly elderly. Old houses are actually not very friendly to modern life. To add toilets, change wiring, divide rooms, and install natural gas, solar energy, and air conditioning, the alleys are forced to be covered with wires, network cables, and clothes drying racks. The walls of Shikumen are also full of various pipes. If you cannot accept this down-to-earth environment, this place is not for you.
Opening the door of "Qianjing" reveals a different world. Two houses are connected into one, with a glass roof over the front hall courtyard to ensure lighting and sound insulation. The stairs are newly built, gentle and spacious (most old foreign-style houses have very narrow and steep stairs). The entire second floor is carpeted, and the rooms have modern wet and dry separation. Some have skylights, some have old-style upper windows, and some have windows facing the corridor—features rarely found in new homestays. There are no high-end bathrooms here; the goal is to find a balance between new and old to make guests as comfortable as possible.
It’s very photogenic, and you can wear a qipao to match the atmosphere. This place has also been a filming location for some TV shows and movies. A century ago, only the upper class could live in these Shikumen row houses, which are now nestled among various high-rise buildings in the busiest part of Huangpu District. It’s hard not to marvel at the passage of time and all the changes.
Not far from the alley is the old Zhengxing Restaurant, and behind it is Weixiangzhai’s sesame paste noodles. At the alley entrance, there are also excellent places like Dahu Chun and Shucai Ji Shengjian. Opposite the alley is the old Zhejiang Cinema, which still shows the latest blockbusters. Two blocks north is Nanjing Road Pedestrian Street, and a short walk west leads to People’s Square. After dinner, we even walked east directly to the Bund, with old bookstores along the way that touched my heart deeply.
The owner is a local Shanghainese, enthusiastic and lively, unlike us southerners who tend to be lazy and laid-back.
If you want to experience the fascinating blend of old and new eras, seek a bit of peaceful life in a bustling metropolis without sacrificing convenience, "Qianjing Xiaozhu" is indeed an excellent choice.