Day and Night in Lizhuang, the First Ancient Town on the Yangtze River, and Its "Three Whites"
A light drizzle couldn't dampen our enthusiasm for exploring. The tourist map left us a bit disoriented, but we decided to just start walking. Through narrow alleys, past a small school, and down a lane beside the Siyue Hotel, we arrived at the grand archway of the ancient town, marking the beginning of our proper tour.
Few tourists were around—whether due to the off-season or the weather, we couldn’t tell. As we strolled, the rain grew heavier, and we ended up buying two umbrellas. With no set route, we wandered freely, turning into every narrow path and alley without worrying about direction.
This is a stunning ancient town. The architecture is beautiful, exuding classical charm; the streets and alleys are picturesque, winding yet orderly; the flowing water resembles an ink painting; the small bridges are full of character; the boats drift lazily; the delicate flowers glisten in the rain; the chirping birds add liveliness; and the clean, serene paths invite relaxation. Having visited countless ancient towns across China, Lizhuang stands out as one of the best—likely because of its peaceful, uncrowded atmosphere, which enhances the experience.
We roamed joyfully, not bothering to note specific landmarks, simply admiring the pavilions, horse-head walls, carved beams, painted pillars, upturned eaves, and flowering vines on the walls. Here, worries and the outside world faded away, leaving only inner contentment and a quiet, joyful self.
Unintentionally, we reached the Yangtze River. Since we planned to stay in the town for a few days, we only took a quick look, saving the details for later. We later learned that the area we explored was the Moonlight Paddy Scenic Zone, while the main town, with even more attractions, lay on the other side of Tongji Road.
Heading back through the alleys, the rain came and went, so we decided to return in the evening.
Lizhuang is famous for its "Three Whites": white sliced pork, white liquor, and white rice cakes. We’d tried the pork in Yibin but weren’t sure if it was authentic—tonight, we’d taste the real deal. We bought some white rice cakes from Zhang’s shop, sampling all fifteen flavors. As for the liquor, neither of us are big drinkers, but we’d consider trying it later.
Around 7 p.m., we set out to explore the town at night, first heading to He San’s White Sliced Pork—First Cut, reputedly the most authentic, handmade, and guaranteed genuine. The town was livelier at night, offering a different charm.
Walking along the riverside, past Dongyue Temple and a middle school, we soon reached the restaurant. Outside, a chef demonstrated the art of slicing the pork with impressive skill. Inside, though busy, a few tables were free. We ordered the signature white sliced pork (eight large pieces), stir-fried pork liver, pancake rolls, and crispy fish, paired with a small serving of Lizhuang white liquor (38°, brewed from five grains)—completing our "Three Whites" experience.
The food arrived quickly. The pork was thin and fragrant, far better than what we’d had in Yibin. The pancake rolls were satisfying, while the other dishes were decent. The liquor was smooth and slightly sweet, warming without being overpowering.
After dinner, we bought more rice cakes from the nearby Shan’s shop and revisited Moonlight Paddy at night. The illuminated alleys were enchanting—quiet yet radiant, with wet stone paths glistening under the lights. Every building, eave, wall, and pillar was bathed in colorful hues, creating a poetic, romantic, and harmonious ambiance. Walking here, we forgot we were travelers, lost in the moment, wishing it would never end.
Retracing our daytime steps, we discovered a different charm under the night sky—a rare, serene beauty that stirred the soul, making us want to shout, "This trip is worth it! This life is worth it!"
Near the Anti-Japanese War Museum, a performance was underway—a woman in traditional costume singing local opera, her voice and appearance captivating, even if we didn’t understand the lyrics. A rowboat glided by on the river, drawing cameras. Later, more performances on boats added to the scene.
Wandering through alleys and past shops, the dazzling night was lively but not noisy. Every corner revealed another breathtaking view, and we couldn’t stop taking photos, trying to preserve the magic.
Eventually, we headed back to the parking lot, where soft lighting welcomed us. The car was cozy—a comfortable end to a comfortable night in comfortable Lizhuang, a comfortable moment in life.