This desolate temple, once the most revered north of the Yellow River, is now but ruins
After the first sentence, the translation should be on a new line. Although one of the main reasons for visiting Hebei to explore ancient sites was the Xiangtangshan Grottoes, what touched me more was the Chang Le Temple at the foot of the northern Xiangtangshan. To call it a temple, its main buildings have long been in ruins; to call it a site, there is still a pagoda and a few buildings that remain.
According to records, Chang Le Temple was built during the Northern Qi dynasty, originally named Shiku Temple, and was renamed Chang Le Temple during the Jiayou period of the Northern Song dynasty (1056—1063). Its former glory is well-documented; as early as the Tang and Song dynasties, it was known as the 'foremost ancient monastery north of the river,' famous throughout China. 'North of the river' refers to the area north of the Yellow River. To be called 'the first' across the vast lands north of the Yellow River speaks volumes of its past splendor.
Today, only a Song dynasty pagoda outside the mountain gate and some stone carvings inside the temple remain, but the central axis is still clearly discernible. From south to north, there are the mountain gate, stone pagoda, Hall of the Three Worlds, Jin dynasty stele, two Song dynasty sutra pillars, the Mahavira Hall, and the Ksitigarbha Hall. Apart from the mountain gate, which has been rebuilt, the rest are but remnants and ruins.
The Song pagoda outside the temple gate, known as the Putong Pagoda, stands out as the tallest structure of Chang Le Temple at the foot of Drum Mountain, where the grottoes are located. The pagoda is elegant and lofty, with an octagonal nine-story pavilion-style design. The alternating single and double-layer eaves feature different styles, showing unique craftsmanship and serving as an excellent example of Song dynasty architecture.
Directly opposite the mountain gate is a rare small octagonal stone pagoda, with only two levels remaining. The carvings are severely eroded, likely dating back to the Tang dynasty or earlier, a precious example of a pagoda standing along the central axis of a temple.
Behind the pagoda lies the essence of the entire temple site—a set of stone statues remodeled in the second year of the Zhenyuan era of the Jin dynasty (1154). The front of the statues features the Buddhas of the Three Times with two disciples, while the back has the three Bodhisattvas, each supposed to be riding a divine beast, but due to breakage and loss, they are placed haphazardly on the altar.
Regrettably, all the heads of the Buddha statues in this group have been lost, but even with only the bodies remaining, they still convey a calming sense of detachment.
Behind the altar is a Jin dynasty stele erected in the fourth year of the Zhenglong era (1159), followed by a pair of Song dynasty sutra pillars standing to the left and right. Further back is the site of the Mahavira Hall, which stands tall on its base. The wooden structure of the entire building is long gone, with only some stone components that have withstood the flames still standing, supporting a non-existent roof.
It is said that the temple was destroyed by a fire in 1946, allegedly set by a local teacher leading students. This piece of history is not so distant, yet the truth remains to be verified. If true, one can only lament that in an instant, the world lost Chang Le Temple forever.
🏞 Name | Chang Le Temple Ruins
🎫 Ticket | Xiangtangshan Grottoes Ticket
⛳ Address | Inside the Northern Xiangtangshan Scenic Area, Fengfeng Mining District, Handan City
🚗 Transportation | Navigate to 'Northern Xiangtangshan Grottoes'