Baihe Mountain: Seeking Cranes in the Layers of Time, Walking Alone in the Vast Green Hills
Baihe Mountain sprawls across the western suburbs of Qionglai, with its main peak rising only 760 meters above sea level, gently nestled like a hermit at the edge of the western Sichuan plain. There is no oppressive feeling of towering peaks here, only the soft curves of hills covered by a verdant dome of Masson pine, nanmu, and centuries-old ginkgo trees. Legend has it that Hu An, a recluse from the Western Han dynasty, once lectured on the Book of Changes here and ultimately ascended to immortality riding a white crane, giving the mountain its name. History layers like overlapping rock slabs: Tang dynasty cliff carvings, Ming dynasty main halls, Song dynasty study terraces, all intertwined with fitness trails winding through the forest—a single mountain that embraces legends of immortality, Buddhist temple incense, and the everyday tea cups of local citizens.
Helin Temple: A Zen Monastery Where Time and Space Converge
When morning light filters through the ancient nanmu leaves, the red walls of Helin Temple stand out vividly. The plaque above the temple gate reads “Helin Zen Monastery,” inscribed by the Southern Song neo-Confucian scholar Wei Liaoweng, though most of the buildings date from the Ming dynasty. The clay Buddha statues in the Mahavira Hall silently lower their eyes, while the glazed “Coiling Dragon Playing with a Pearl” mural on the back wall is so vibrant it seems ready to take flight. Strangely, there is no sense of alienation typical of ancient temples here: local elders gather under the corridors to play long cards, pilgrims draw water from an ancient well—legend says this water can cure illness and prolong life—and the thick stack of bills taken from the merit box reveals the worldly wisdom of the “incense economy.”
Mountain Walk: A Dialogue Between Stone Steps and Cliff Carvings
Winding up the stone slab path, the shade completely swallows the summer heat. There are two must-see spots along the way:
Tang Dynasty Cliff Carvings: About 20 stone niches carved into the rock face, with the largest Maitreya Buddha nearly 5 meters tall. Some statues are draped in highly saturated “cyber robes,” a surreal collision of tradition and absurdity like a contemporary art exhibition.
Xilin Pagoda: Though weathered, this Tang dynasty ancient pagoda stands tall, with the “White Crane Perches on Truth” stone stele in front as sturdy as a mountain ridge’s backbone. From here, overlooking Qionglai city, the tiled roofs and the distant mountains with rivers winding like silver ribbons form a serene, distant landscape painting.
The Coexistence of Crowds and Silence
The wonder of Baihe Mountain lies in its acceptance of all sounds: the runners’ breaths on the fitness trail, the clatter of mahjong in teahouses, birdsong before the ruined halls of Youju Temple, even the faint rustle of moss growing after rain—all blend into the same forest mist. The teahouse halfway up the mountain is perfect for a short rest: bamboo chairs, wooden tables, Qionglai green tea for 10 yuan a cup, watching sunlight turn tree shadows into golden foil. During Mid-Autumn Festival, the scent of century-old osmanthus mingles with the ink fragrance from the study terrace, creating the “Osmanthus Shadow on the Study Terrace”—a scene that has topped the Eight Views of Linqiong since the Song dynasty.
Practical Guide:
Transportation: Take the high-speed train from Chengdu West Station to Qionglai (about 30 minutes, fare 25 yuan), then transfer to Bus No. 1 directly to the mountain gate. For self-driving, navigate to “Baihe Mountain Parking Lot,” parking fee 5 yuan per vehicle.
Route: Recommended loop: Mountain Gate → Helin Temple → Cliff Carvings → Xilin Pagoda → Youju Temple → Return (total about 2-3 hours).
Tips:
Buy buckwheat baked buns at the entrance as dry food;
Water is only sold at the entrance and the teahouse, so bring enough;
If it rains, the moss-covered stone steps become slippery—be careful to avoid falls.
Descending as dusk falls, the elderly practicing Tai Chi in the square move like cranes dancing in slow motion. Looking back at the mountain silhouette, it truly resembles a white crane about to take flight, carrying both the legend of Hu An’s ascension and the daily joy of the townspeople beneath its wings. Perhaps true “immortal aura” never needs to leave the mundane—it hides in the coolness of well water, the warmth of tea steam, and the thousand-year-old forest breeze.