Glittering Lake Malawi
I sat with 25 to 30 other passengers in the airport in Harare, Zimbabwe, waiting for the hour-long Air Malawi flight to Lilongwe.
The women all wore long skirts, and the guys wore pants and shirts with consistently short haircuts.
Before going to Malawi, the little south-central African country bounded by Mozambique, Zambia, and Tanzania, I’d read about a long-standing official dress code in tourism brochures. We weren’t going to take any chances.
It turns out that the information was a year old. The new multiparty administration in Malawi, which took power in May 1994 after Dr. Hastings Banda’s 30-year reign, appears to have modified a number of things, including the clothing code for tourists.
Glittering Lake Malawi
Nonetheless, during my visit to Lilongwe in August, a modern city that was transformed from a small dusty town in the central province into the country’s administrative and governmental capital in 1975, local styles of dress largely reflected Dr. Banda‘s conservative slant — simple cotton dresses for women and straight, dark pants and white shirts for men.
I proceeded to the lake district of Mangochi, on the southern bank of Lake Malawi, after spending my first night at the delightfully modern Lilongwe Hotel in the city’s Old Town, around 190 miles and a four- to six-hour journey away.
Tourism did not appear to have changed the way of life in the predominantly Muslim rural area, which was one of the reasons I chose to spend the majority of my five-day Malawi vacation there.
A decent amount of political stability, fairly cheap and safe accommodations, and waters devoid of bilharzia parasites and crocodiles were also enticing (the better to swim).
The southern shore of Lake Malawi, Africa’s third largest lake, more than surpassed those requirements.
Dr. David Livingstone
Dr. David Livingstone was so enamored with the dazzling lake that covers 300 miles and up to 40 miles wide in certain areas that he named it his Lake of Stars when he first saw it in 1859.
The indigenous Chichewa name for lake is Nyanja, pronounced Nyasa by the Arab traders who plied the east African coast. As a result, Livingstone dubbed the region Nyasaland, or “land of the lake,” and Britain declared it a protectorate in 1891.
When the country gained independence in 1964, it reverted to its old name of Malawi, which roughly translates to “the heat that emanates from the fire” in Chichewa.
Malawian Currency
The way things work in Malawi is heavily influenced by words. Kwacha, which means dawn, was the call to independence from colonialism, and after the British left, it became the name of the country’s legal coinage. (A US dollar is approximately 15 kwacha.)
The coins are known as tambala, which means cockerel, and ten cockerels equal one daybreak.
I can attest to the cockerels’ efforts because I hear the majority of them about 5:30 a.m., along with the daily call to prayer from the village mosques, just minutes before the sun rises over the lake.
The sun, like the roosters, welcomed back the scores of fishermen who had spent the night trawling their nets in the center of the lake in a flotilla of wooden rowboats, in teams of three or four.
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The fishermen’s town of Makokola was just down the beach from the Club Makokola resort, where I had rented a wonderful wooden-beamed, thatched-roof white concrete rondavel for three days, without phone or TV.
A visitor’s Guide to Malawi
Getting There
British Airways has a 12-hour flight to Lilongwe, the capital of Malawi, leaving London every Saturday evening.
Within Africa, there are more frequent flights on Air Malawi or South African Airways, with service from cities such as Harare, Johannesburg, Nairobi and Lusaka.
(The round-trip flight from Harare to Lilongwe and back from Blantyre cost $203.) KLM also has direct service from Amsterdam on Monday and Wednesday, with return trips on Tuesday and Thursday.
The only regularly scheduled air service from Lilongwe to the southern lake shore is Air Malawi’s Sunday 6:45 A.M. flight, returning late Sunday afternoon.
Charter service, on a six-seater Cessna, was inaugurated in August by Sefofane, a Botswana-based company. Arrangements can be made through Central African Wilderness Safaris, Post Office Box 489, Lilongwe, Malawi, telephone (265) 781-393, fax (265) 781-397; it can also arrange transportation by private van.
There is bus service on Stagecoach lines from Lilongwe or Blantyre to Cape Maclear at the National Park and back again; it leaves in each direction every morning at 7:15 and 8:30, costs only about $4.25 each way, but takes about six hours over a narrow two-lane road.
Avis has Toyota rental cars available at Blantyre or Lilongwe airports at $25 to $65 a day, plus gas and a per-kilometer charge. Collision damage waiver is extra.
All cars are standard shift. The cost to hire a driver for the day is an additional $10. Reservations: (800) 331-1212.
Where to Stay
My local travel agency arranged my tour to Malawi through United Touring International, 1 Bala Plaza, Suite 414, Bala-Cynwyd, Pa. 19004, (800) 223-6486 or (610) 617-3300, fax (610) 617-3312.
It dealt directly with Central African Wilderness Safaris, arranging airport transfers, hotels in the two airport cities of Lilongwe and Blantyre, transportation to and from the lake district of Mangochi and my stay at Club Makokola.
The cost for five nights, including all transfers, bed and full buffet breakfast, and dinner for three nights at Club Makokola, was $960 for a single.
You can save money by booking directly with Club Makokola, where a beachfront room with breakfast only (including tax and service charge) is $69 a night for a single and $52 a person for a double.
(Prices may go up 10 percent at Christmas and Easter.) Club Makokola, Post Office Box 59, Mangochi, Malawi; (265) 584-244 from the United States, fax (265) 584-417. Major credit cards accepted.
An even less expensive alternative is the O.K. Lakeshore Motel, c/o Violet Kachione, Post Office Box 401, Mangochi, Malawi, (265) 584-641, a low concrete building with simple, clean rooms, each with private toilet and shower, facing the same beautiful beach.
The price is $5 a person. There is a restaurant on the premises. No charge cards, but checks accepted for deposit.
Camping with or without your own tent is permitted at the Lake Malawi National Park campgrounds for $3 a night a person.
There are also modest chalets ($5 double) and rondavels ($8 double) available at the park, with limited supplies for cooking.
Kudya Discovery Lodge, at the entrance to Liwonde National Park, has 47 rooms, all with private toilets and showers. A double room with fan goes for about $21, plus 20 percent service and tax.
A room with air-conditioning is about $4 higher (September to November are the hot months on the river).
Breakfast and dinner are additional. Major credit cards accepted. Write Private Bag Y, Liwonde, Malawi.
The two international airport cities of Lilongwe and Blantyre and the old capital city of Zomba have modern, first-class hotels run by Malawi Protea Hotels.
The regional office is at the Mount Soche Hotel, Post Office Box 184, Blantyre, Malawi, (265) 620-588, fax (265) 620-154.
The Kuchawe Inn on top of Zomba Plateau also can be booked directly at Post Office Box 71, Zomba, Malawi, (265) 522-566, fax (265) 522-509.
What to Do
Lake Divers inside the Lake Malawi National Park offers four- to five-day dive courses in both Naui and Padi, with camping along the beach.
It also provides dive charters and equipment, island trips to the 12 islands around the cape, water-skiing and parasailing.
The divemaster, Chris Morehouse-Chilcott, advises that when the weather is cooler, in June and July, the water is clearer.
But the most popular diving season is from August through December, before the January and February rainy season. Lake Divers, Post Office Box 48, Monkey Bay, Malawi, (265) 584-657, fax (265) 587-384. M. B.