Huayan Temple Vegetarian Zen Journey
Huayan Vegetarian Heart Record
At seven in the morning, before the fog in Chongqing had lifted, I was already standing at the mountain gate of Huayan Temple. The bluestone steps were dampened by the night dew, shining faintly as they stretched upward, disappearing into the lush forest. Taking a deep breath, the crisp mountain air mixed with a faint sandalwood scent instantly washed away the city's noise.
First Experience of a Pure Heart
I had long heard of Huayan Temple’s vegetarian culture, but I decided to first explore its natural beauty. Walking along the main path, ancient trees towered on both sides, sunlight filtering through the leaves casting mottled shadows on the ground. Turning a corner, Huayan Cave suddenly appeared— a natural rock cave with the temple built according to the terrain. Clear spring water dripped from the cave ceiling into a pool below, each drop crisp like the ticking of a timekeeper.
The pool water was crystal clear, with a few red carp leisurely swimming. Sitting on a stone bench by the pool, I watched the reflection of the cliff’s rock inscriptions on the water’s surface, momentarily unable to tell what was real and what was illusion. This was probably the first lesson Huayan Temple gave me: the coexistence of reality and illusion, nothing exists outside the mind.
Zen Flavor of the Vegetarian Lunch
Unconsciously, it was nearly noon. I headed to the temple’s vegetarian restaurant as planned. The restaurant was simple and elegant, with wooden tables and chairs, and a verse about the “Five Contemplations of Eating” hanging on the wall. I ordered their signature “Arhat Vegetarian Dish” and “Vegetarian Pepper Chicken Shreds.”
While waiting, an elderly couple at the next table spoke softly: “After eating meat for thirty years, only here did I realize the true flavor of vegetarian food.” The old lady smiled and nodded, her eyes reflecting the calmness of time.
The dishes arrived. The Arhat Vegetarian Dish contained eighteen ingredients including shiitake mushrooms, wood ear fungus, bamboo shoots, and tofu, with elegant colors arranged like a lotus. The “Vegetarian Pepper Chicken Shreds” were actually made from soy products but had a texture similar to chicken. The first bite gently awakened my taste buds—no strong seasoning, only the natural sweetness of the ingredients unfolding layer by layer. Vegetarian food is not bland; it is the authentic taste after shedding superficiality.
The chef casually shared that the vegetarian dishes here exclude the “five pungent spices” like scallions, garlic, and chives to avoid stimulating desires; most vegetables come from the temple’s garden and are eaten seasonally. Suddenly, I understood that this meal was not just a taste experience but also a practice of body and mind—knowing where food comes from and where it goes leads to appreciation.
Zen Realm of Mountains and Waters
After the meal, I strolled to Huayan Lake. The afternoon sun was just right, the lake surface like a mirror reflecting the blue sky, white clouds, and the seven-story Buddhist pagoda by the shore. A few water birds skimmed across, creating ripples. Sitting under a willow tree by the lake, I opened the “Cai Gen Tan” I brought with me and smiled knowingly when I read, “Rich, fatty, spicy, and sweet are not true flavors; true flavor is only bland.”
Walking slowly along the lakeside path, I met a monk sweeping the ground. His movements were calm, the bamboo broom making a rhythmic rustling sound. Seeing me pause, he joined his palms and smiled: “Are you here seeking tranquility, benefactor?” I nodded. He softly said, “Tranquility is not in the mountains, but in the ordinary heart that eats a vegetarian meal and sweeps a leaf.”
Enlightenment at Dusk
At dusk, I climbed to the temple’s rear viewing platform. The setting sun bathed the entire temple in golden light, the flying eaves like cranes spreading their wings. In the distance, city lights began to glow; nearby, the evening drum sounded.
Suddenly, I understood the profound meaning of Huayan Temple’s vegetarian culture—it is not just abstaining from meat but through the simplest meal, allowing one to return to the original state of life. The beauty of the mountains lies in their silent perseverance; the beauty of the water lies in its clear self-possession; the beauty of vegetarian food lies in the reverence and gratitude for all things in heaven and earth.
Descending the mountain, I took back two things: a vegetarian recipe from the temple and a heart cleansed by the mountains, waters, and simple meal. The city lights drew near, but I knew there was a place of eternal coolness in my heart—there was the mountain and water of Huayan Temple, and that simple, genuine taste reminding me: true flavor is the blandest, and blandness is profound.
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Travel Tips:
· Huayan Temple’s vegetarian restaurant is open to the public with affordable prices
· It is recommended to arrive early to avoid crowds and enjoy the tranquility of the mountains and waters
· Photography is prohibited in many areas inside the temple; please follow the rules
· You can participate in short-term Zen retreats or vegetarian cooking experiences within the temple