Three Days Wandering in Dayao: White Pagoda Reflects Yi Culture, Baicaoling Hides Wild Charm and Walnut Fragrance

Dayao is often called the "hidden small town" in central Yunnan. After personally exploring a three-day off-the-beaten-path route, I finally understood that its beauty lies between the everyday life and the mountains and fields — the White Pagoda reflecting the lake light, Yi villages wafting with the aroma of wine, Baicaoling covered with azaleas and sea of clouds, and even the air wrapped in the rich scent of walnuts. Avoiding the crowds, every moment is a surprise. On the first day, dive into the county town and nearby suburbs to unlock the "slow life code." In the early morning, take a walk around White Pagoda Park for exercise. The Tang Dynasty White Pagoda stands among Baofa Mountain, its white body reflecting the lake water, looking like an ink painting in the morning mist. Don’t miss the Walnut Museum inside the park, where old artifacts reveal the heritage of the "Hometown of Walnuts." The guide said the walnuts here need to grow at an altitude of 1800 meters to be fragrant enough. At noon, head straight to an old local restaurant in the county town; the walnut stewed chicken is so fresh it makes you stomp your feet. The chicken soup glistens with nut oil, paired with crispy walnut kernels, tender and sweet with a lingering aftertaste. In the afternoon, stroll to Zhaojiadian Yi Village, where stone slab paths wind quietly, and corn cobs hang on the walls of wooden houses. Locals invite you into their courtyard to drink homemade rice wine, dipping bitter buckwheat cakes in honey. The sweet fragrance mixed with the aroma of wine, while listening to their stories about the Torch Festival, fills your heart with warmth. On the second day, rush to Baicaoling for a mountain and wild rendezvous. As the highest peak in Chuxiong, 3,657-meter Maotai Mountain hides the wonder of "one mountain dividing four seasons." Avoid the main road and take the "Hero Slope branch trail," where the branches of the Ten Thousand Monkey Forest take countless shapes, like a troop of monkeys playing. When you reach Lover’s Slope, the clouds and mist just roll in, and the pink azaleas (blooming from April to May) are wrapped in a light veil. The meadow beneath your feet is soft, and occasionally you can catch sight of cattle and horses leisurely grazing in the distance. From the summit, overlook the surging sea of clouds, with sunlight piercing through, lighting up the entire mountain. In the evening, stay at a Yi family courtyard at the foot of the mountain. The hostess serves cold tree flower salad, firewood ham, and then cooks a pot of walnut and yam soup. The warm soup soothes hiking fatigue, and falling asleep to the sound of the mountain wind feels especially comforting. Tip: Wear non-slip shoes, bring a light jacket as the temperature difference at the summit is large. On the third day, explore ancient villages and walnut forests for an immersive cultural experience. Visit Balame Village in Shiyang Town, just in time for the Yi "Ganqiu Festival." Locals wear exquisitely embroidered costumes, play the lusheng (reed pipe instrument), and perform the left-foot dance. Small stalls on Yangmei Mountain offer mutton soup and cold noodles, lively yet not commercialized. In the afternoon, venture into Santai Walnut Forest Park, where thirty acres of ancient walnut trees flourish. Pick a few fresh walnuts fallen to the ground, crack them open and eat immediately — sweet and juicy. Before returning, buy walnut brown sugar cakes and walnut sauce in the ancient town as souvenirs. The shop owner smiles and says, "These are all homemade, no additives." Deep travel in Dayao is never about rushing to check off spots: it’s the morning mist by White Pagoda Lake, the floral fragrance on Baicaoling, the rice wine aroma in Yi family courtyards, and the fresh sweetness of walnuts from branch to tongue. There is no excessive commercial noise here, only the gentle collision of nature and culture, perfect for those who want to slow down. Next time, come for the Torch Festival, dance around the bonfire, and eat freshly made walnut glutinous rice cakes again.