The Owara Kaze no Bon Festival (Toyama City, Toyama Prefecture, Former Province: Etchu)

Experience the enchanting dance and music that appear in early autumn Toyama, and witness the skillful 'performance' that has evolved the festival. ...When you long to meet from afar, let the moon be your mirror and Owara your guide. Embraced by mountains and rivers, you will find solace in Yatsuo, the town of songs... From September 1st to 3rd each year, the melancholic tune of the 'Etchu Owara Bushi' resonates throughout the town of Etchu Yatsuo. This sorrowful melody rides the cool autumn night breeze, vibrating the strings of the kokyu and echoing through the tranquil valleys. Known nationwide today as the 'Owara Kaze no Bon,' the festival's origins trace back to a folk song passed down in Yatsuo since the early Edo period. The dates of September 1st to 3rd were chosen to calm the strong winds that arise just before the rice harvest. However, the current characteristic of the festival, where dancers silently and solemnly traverse the quaint stone-paved old town, evoking a sense of eerie beauty, is a modern 'performance' addition that many are unaware of. Yatsuo, originally a post town on the road from Toyama to Hida (now northern Gifu Prefecture), retains its nostalgic Edo-period charm with stone walls built along the clear stream of the Ida River. Historically, the town thrived on sericulture and Japanese paper production, and during the Edo period, it became part of the Toyama Domain, receiving significant support as a key industry. This background allowed the townspeople of Yatsuo to accumulate wealth and maintain a sense of independence, fostering unique festivals and culture. However, with the decline in demand for silk and paper in modern times, Yatsuo's economy suffered greatly, and the town's vibrancy gradually faded. In response to this crisis, local doctor Junji Kawasaki (1898-1971) took action. Known for his achievements as the president of the Toyama Medical Association, Kawasaki dedicated himself to preserving the Owara Bushi tradition and promoting Yatsuo's charm. In 1929, he organized the 'Etchu Yatsuo Folk Song Owara Preservation Society' and began improving the Owara Bushi. He invited many literati to Yatsuo to gather opinions and set the direction, leading to the creation of a new Owara Bushi with choreography by Japanese dancer Kichisaburo Wakayagi (1891-1940) and lyrics by painter Hoan Kosugi (1881-1964). The 'Yatsuo Owara Museum' in the center of Yatsuo (photos 1, 3, and 4) recreates Kawasaki's study, showcasing his thoughts on Owara and his diverse interactions. The Owara Bushi, enriched by the insights of cultural and artistic leaders, gained significant attention through performances in Tokyo and has become a representative event of Toyama Prefecture, attracting 200,000 visitors over the three days of 'Kaze no Bon.' As the harsh late summer heat finally subsides and the sky turns a pale purple, lanterns and bonbori light up the slopes, and the Owara Bushi begins to play softly throughout the town. The Kaze no Bon features 11 towns in Yatsuo and its vicinity, each dancing through their neighborhoods, creating a 'simultaneous' spectacle centered around the main street of Suwamachi Hondori, the old highway. Following the sound of the kokyu, you can witness the elegant dancers in variously designed yukata. Notably, the dancers wear deep hats and dance silently, a peculiar gap that enhances the festival's enchantment, captivating the audience with their graceful presence within a 'style.' Even as the night deepens and group tourists leave Yatsuo, the Kaze no Bon continues. With fewer people surrounding the dancers, the dance takes on a more intense atmosphere, blending with the night and drawing you into its unique charm. Interestingly, I left Yatsuo before midnight to catch a special late-night bus back to Toyama City, but I saw people with large cameras climbing the slope. When I asked, they said that 'Owara enthusiasts' deliberately visit from late night to dawn. After the official festival ends, the town groups dissolve, and the dancers perform for themselves, reflecting the 'primordial' Owara Bushi rooted in Yatsuo, deepening my interest in its profound allure. Recommended for solo travel: ★★ (Crowded, but you won't feel out of place alone) Visit date: Weekday evening around 6 PM in the first week of September Access: About a 30-minute walk from Etchu Yatsuo Station (to the Yatsuo Owara Museum. During the Kaze no Bon period, the JR Takayama Main Line to Etchu Yatsuo increases its services).