The Feng Shui Formation of Emperor Kanmu: The Four Beasts Legend of Heian Shrine

In Kyoto, a city known for its ancient temples that are often centuries old, Heian Shrine stands out as a relatively new structure. However, it holds a special significance in the flow of history. The story begins with Heian-kyo. During the reign of the 50th Emperor Kanmu, he chose Kyoto as the new capital to replace Nagaoka-kyo. Modeled after the Chinese cities of Luoyang and Chang'an, Heian-kyo was built. It is said that Emperor Kanmu deeply believed in Feng Shui and considered Kyoto to be a demonic city. To protect it, he placed the Azure Dragon, White Tiger, Vermilion Bird, and Black Tortoise in the four cardinal directions, corresponding to four temples: Yasaka Shrine, Matsuo Shrine, Jonan Shrine, and Kamigamo Shrine. The northeast direction, considered the demon gate, was guarded by Enryaku-ji on Mount Hiei. Geographically, the city was surrounded by Mount Funaoka to the north, the Kamo River to the east, the San'in Road to the west, and Lake Ogura to the south, forming a complete Feng Shui formation. In March 130 years ago, during the Meiji Restoration, the capital was moved to Tokyo, and Heian Shrine was built. The shrine's buildings were modeled after the Chodo-in, the main hall of the Heian-kyo Imperial Palace, at five-eighths of the original size. The main deity enshrined is Emperor Kanmu, and later Emperor Komei, the last emperor of Heian-kyo, was also enshrined. In front of the Taikyokuden, the White Tiger Tower and Azure Dragon Tower were built according to Emperor Kanmu's Feng Shui theory. In 1975, left-wing activists set fire to the main hall and eight other buildings, which were later reconstructed. Understanding the historical context helps to appreciate the importance of Heian Shrine. Its vermilion buildings and green-glazed tiles are quite striking. Today, Heian Shrine remains a popular tourist attraction and a center of worship. Visitors who draw a lucky fortune slip take it home, while those who draw an unlucky one tie it to a tree in the shrine. The sight of the tree covered in fortune slips shows how many people visit the shrine. 📍Address: 97 Okazaki Nishitennocho, Sakyo Ward, Kyoto, 606-8341, Japan