48 Hours in Zhouzhuang: The Right Way to Experience a Jiangnan Water Town

At 6 a.m., I stood on the Quanfu Bridge, watching the morning mist drift over the canopies of boats. The sound of oars broke the ink-like silence, and the corners of the boatwoman's blue calico clothes were stained with dew. This moment captured the essence of Zhouzhuang, reminiscent of its appearance before Shen Wansan's merchant ships embarked on their distant voyages. Itinerary Arrive Friday evening and return Sunday at noon. Staying one night is ideal. The ancient town ticket is CNY 100, including Zhang Hall and Shen Hall, or CNY 88 if purchased online one day in advance. Navigate to "Zhouzhuang Ancient Town Xianjiang Bay parking lot," which is a 1.5-hour drive from Shanghai. Three Must-See Scenes At Dawn (6:00–8:30 a.m.) Walk from Taiping Bridge to Shuangqiao (Twin Bridges) and watch the bluestone paths awaken in the morning light. The first steaming baskets of crab roe soup dumplings are being prepared at the Fuanqiao breakfast shop. Enjoy them with a bowl of tofu pudding while observing the riverside residents open their wooden window lattices. Afternoon Exploration (1:00–3:00 p.m.) Wander into the alleys of Yinzi Harbor and visit the study of the Republican-era writer Ye Chucang in his former residence. Order a pot of Grandma's tea at the Milou Tower. The carved window on the second floor overlooks Zhenfeng Bridge, where Liu Yazi once wrote, "Three houses by the Zhenfeng Bridge." Evening Charm (5:30–8:00 p.m.) As the evening lights of the Nanhu Moon Garden begin to twinkle, take a hand-rowed boat (CNY 220/boat). As you pass under Fuan Bridge, remember to look up and admire the eaves of the Ming Dynasty bridge tower, which resemble flying geese. The boatwoman will sing "The Four Seasons Song" as the boat passes through the arch. Unique Experiences • Shen Hall's kitchen hides a menu for the "Wansan Family Banquet" passed down from the Ming Dynasty. Ask a guide to make a reservation for a tasting of the secret recipe Wansan pork knuckle. • Zhang Hall's layout, where "sedan chairs enter through the front door, and boats pass through the house," hides a secret. Look for the mooring holes for merchant ships on the stone railings in the back garden. • Every Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday at 2:00 p.m., there is a live Kunqu Opera performance at the ancient theater. Enjoy it with a cup of socked-bottom shortbread as a tea-time treat. Culinary Delights ✅ Shen Hall Restaurant: Wansan pork knuckle with water shield soup and whitebait. The secret to its rich yet non-greasy flavor lies in simmering it in a clay pot over a low fire for 4 hours. ✅ Zhenfeng Cultural Street: Freshly made qingtuan (green rice balls) at Laozaotou, with shepherd's purse filling and a fragrant aroma of mugwort. ✅ Zhongshi Street: Enjoy a bowl of Aozao noodles with smoked green beans. The secret of the soup base, made with eel bones, has been preserved for centuries. Waterside Accommodation It's recommended to stay inside the scenic area! I stayed at the "Flora House · Jixiang," which was renovated from the Dai residence. The entrance to a Ming Dynasty cellar is preserved in the courtyard of the old house. If you have a larger budget, choose "Nanhu Hermitage," where the 270° lake-view rooms offer views of the reflection of the Yunhai Tower. Things to Avoid ① Be wary of rickshaw drivers recommending "free entrances." ② Hand-rowed boat prices increase by 50% after 8 p.m. ③ For genuine silk products, look for shops at the former site of the "Zhouzhuang Silk Guild." After the tour groups departed, I browsed the guestbook from 1989 at the Sanmao Tea House. Sanmao once said, "I have finally found the dream I've been longing for for decades." At this moment, with the wind chimes tinkling from the eaves, I finally understood why she shed tears here.