Immerse yourself in the stunning Liao Dynasty sculptures and travel through time at the ancient temples of Datong

The ancient city of Datong, with a history of over 2,300 years of establishment and more than 1,700 years of urban development, contains a profound historical charm. In this land where frontier customs and agricultural-pastoral civilization converge, the Huayan Temple, one of the earliest and most well-preserved Liao-Jin temple complexes in China, is undoubtedly a treasure. The temple's Daxiong Hall, known as the 'Hall of Four Dynasties,' encompasses the foundation of the Liao Dynasty, the hall of the Jin Dynasty, the statues of the Ming Dynasty, and the murals of the Qing Dynasty, a unique example in the country. The Huayan Temple in the ancient city of Datong, a site for the transmission of the Huayan school, one of the eight major Buddhist sects, was founded during the Liao Dynasty and named after the Buddhist scripture 'Avatamsaka Sutra'. Unlike most Buddhist temples in China, which face south with the entrance to the north, The Huayan Temple, facing east with the entrance to the west, reflects the Khitan people's lifestyle during the Liao Dynasty, 'Esteeming the east and dwelling in pursuit of the sun.' After more than a thousand years, it has been imbued with Chinese culture from different periods, Making every plant and every tree in the Huayan Temple permeated with The culture and art of various historical eras. This layering faithfully records The historical changes since the temple was built. Exploring the secrets of Huayan Temple is a pursuit of its ephemeral history. Standing in front of the gate of the Daxiong Hall of Huayan Temple, your first reaction is likely to be—big! It is one of the largest existing Liao-Jin wooden structures, with the base alone being over four meters high, and the pair of glazed chi (spire) on the roof is a massive 4.5 meters. Standing under the eaves, one feels the huge brackets and lotus-petal-shaped kun (arch) doors forming waves, surging towards you layer by layer. Entering the hall, the grandeur becomes even more apparent. A major feature of Liao-Jin architecture is the use of 'column reduction' to create open spaces, which, compared to the Song-style architecture of the same period, inherits more of the bold style of the late Tang Dynasty, making it even more majestic. The Baojiao Scripture Depository, equivalent to the 'scripture depository' within the temple, has a similarly simple and robust appearance but contains a universe within: wooden wall cabinets and heavenly pavilions stand around three walls, with extremely delicate carving techniques, exuding a 'grain of sand, a world' aesthetic. The Bodhisattva statues inside the hall are the most distinctive, some with heads adorned with gilded crowns derived from the noble headwear of the Liao Dynasty, some in armor, reflecting the importance the nomadic nations placed on the military. These Bodhisattvas' postures are not as serene and solemn as we commonly see; particularly, one 'Bodhisattva with joined palms and exposed teeth' in the hall has a graceful figure and slightly parted red lips, resembling the 'girlish posture' of innocence and vivacity. To seriously tour Huayan Temple, you need at least two days. Stepping out of the Huayan Temple gate is a large square, where food, drinks, entertainment, and everything else is readily available. I chose the Huazhu Yunke Xuan Inn, a chain brand I always trust. The relaxed atmosphere of the guesthouse is created by the interaction of the layout, furnishings, colors, materials, and light and shadow, forming an effortless and naturally comfortable feeling. Tea, incense, and flowers blend into the space, along with the display, cultural sentiments, and memories of the ancient city, diffusing into every corner of the guesthouse. The interior, primarily made of wood, has a warm and natural texture, and when paired with fabrics and rattan-woven lamps, it conveys a slightly traditional, retro temperament.