Visiting the Ancient Pagodas Amidst the Whispering Pines—The Three Pagodas of Chongsheng Temple

Dali in early March is truly a windy place. When the wind blows, it can be hard to stand firm. My sun hat with a strap was blown off several times, and even when I woke up in the morning, the sound of the wind howling outside the window filled my ears. The Three Pagodas of Chongsheng Temple stand at the foot of the Cangshan Mountains, facing Erhai Lake. It is Dali's only 5A-rated scenic spot. The three pagodas are arranged in a triangular formation and were first built during the Nanzhao Kingdom. The main pagoda, Qianxun Pagoda, is 69.13 meters high and has 16 stories with a square, dense-eave brick structure built during the Tang Dynasty. The two smaller pagodas are 42.19 meters high, each with 10 stories and an octagonal, dense-eave brick structure built during the Song Dynasty. This layout and style are said to be rare among ancient Chinese pagodas. Since their construction, the Three Pagodas have withstood thousands of years of wind and rain erosion and numerous earthquakes, showcasing the superb architectural skills of ancient China. They are also one of the oldest buildings in southern China and an important symbol of the introduction of Buddhism to Yunnan. Stepping into the Three Pagodas scenic area at dawn, the atmosphere is vast and solemn. The pale yellow brick pagodas stand tall and graceful against the azure sky, and the crepuscular rays make them appear even more sacred and majestic. The entire scenic area can be divided into two parts. The front part is the pagoda area, which includes the Three Pagodas, the Nanzhao Jianji Great Bell Tower, the Yutong Guanyin Hall, the Chongsheng Temple Three Pagodas Cultural Relics Exhibition Hall, and the Intangible Cultural Heritage Exhibition Hall. Further inside is the Chongsheng Temple mountain gate, where the large "Buddha Capital" plaque instantly transports visitors back to the world of "Demi-Gods and Semi-Devils." Chongsheng Temple was first built during the Kaiyuan period of the Tang Dynasty and reached its peak during the Song Dynasty. Nine kings of the Dali Kingdom became monks and practiced here. It was the royal temple of the Nanzhao and Dali Kingdoms, and it is the Tianlong Temple depicted in "Demi-Gods and Semi-Devils." Unfortunately, Chongsheng Temple was destroyed by war and natural disasters during the Xianfeng and Tongzhi periods of the Qing Dynasty. The existing buildings are later restorations. There are sightseeing buses to the main hall of Chongsheng Temple. The famous reflection of the Three Pagodas can be seen on the left-hand side of the entrance. We chose to walk. The weather that day was unpredictable, alternating between sunshine and rain, strong mountain winds, rustling pines, and drizzling rain. Walking among the green pines and cypresses, we experienced the ever-changing plateau weather and seemed to be touching the history of the Nanzhao and Dali Kingdoms, allowing our souls to feel the vastness and age of history. I want to mention the "Wa Cat" specifically. I had seen them in Shuanglang, Xizhou, and other places before but didn't know what they were. I saw an explanation at the Three Pagodas Intangible Cultural Heritage Exhibition Hall. It turns out that they are the guardian deities of Yunnanese homes, a kind of auspicious beast. Because their image resembles a small cat squatting on a roof ridge, they are called "Wa Cat," although their prototype is actually a tiger. To get to the Three Pagodas of Chongsheng Temple, you can take the dedicated Three Pagodas bus line for 3 yuan. A taxi ride from Dali Old Town takes only about 10 minutes, which is very convenient.