Fenchihu - Historic Railway Town with Japanese Charm

Inspired by my sister’s enthusiasm for Fenchihu—a quaint town nestled between Chiayi and Alishan—we decided to spend a night there to experience its charm for ourselves. Her stories painted a picture of a place rich in history and local character, ideal for a quiet interlude on our journey to Alishan. Our trip from Taipei to Alishan was wonderfully smooth, with everything arranged online—train tickets, accommodation, all set for a relaxed, leisurely pace. We enjoy travelling slowly, so we chose to break up the journey with an overnight stop in Chiayi before continuing to Fenchihu. Chiayi, a tranquil county, serves as a gateway for many heading up the mountain, and its laid-back atmosphere reminded me of my hometown, Tanjung Pinang, with its traditional shophouses and absence of high-rise buildings. It felt like a town preserved in time, perfect for retirement, with a calm and unhurried energy. A one-night stay was enough to take in the town’s unique charm. The next morning, we set off early to catch the 9:00 a.m. train to Fenchihu, just a short five-minute walk from our hotel. While some travellers choose to take the bus, I couldn’t pass up the chance to travel by train. There’s something special about the slower pace, the rhythmic chugging, and the unfolding scenery outside. This wasn’t a high-speed service but an old-fashioned train, winding through lush landscapes at a gentle pace, turning the 2.5-hour journey into a step back in time. Arriving in Fenchihu, I quickly saw why my sister was so taken with it. This town, tucked into the mountains, is truly a hidden gem. Once a major stop on the Alishan Forest Railway, Fenchihu has a rich history tied to its role as a transport and supply centre during the Japanese colonial period. The railway was originally built to transport timber, and Fenchihu became a bustling town where workers and travellers would rest and refuel. Remnants of this history are still visible today in the traditional Japanese-style architecture, old wooden train carriages, and narrow alleyways filled with shophouses, all of which give the town its distinct, nostalgic charm. Spending a night here allowed us to fully appreciate its rich history, including the famous Fenchihu bento—a traditional meal first popularised to serve railway passengers, packed with local ingredients and presented in a nostalgic metal lunchbox. We also indulged in the town’s iconic sweet doughnuts, queuing for about 15 minutes to experience the treat beloved by locals and visitors alike. Fenchihu was more than just a stopover on our journey—it was a step back in time, where history lives on in every corner, inviting you to slow down and savour each moment amidst the town’s unique character and natural beauty.