The Edo-style Aesthetic Mastery of Hanaya Yohei

Pushing open the simple wooden lattice door feels like stepping into the sacred realm of a Ginza ryotei in Tokyo. Hanaya Yohei proudly upholds the spirit of 'Edo-style sushi,' where the chef's masterful touch harmonizes the temperature of vinegared rice with the freshness of the fish to achieve perfect balance. The day's special otoro (fatty tuna) glides down the throat like velvet, its marbled fat releasing a sweet richness when catalyzed by the 36°C vinegared rice. The uni (sea urchin) gunkan, served on a shiso leaf, delivers an exquisite symphony of briny ocean flavors and the subtle heat of wasabi. A sequence of twelve sushi pieces, each resembling a work of art, is presented in order. The acidity of the vinegared rice intensifies from white-fleshed to red-fleshed fish, paired with the delicate spiciness of freshly grated wasabi, embodying the Edo-style philosophy of 'seasonal flavors.' The tamagoyaki (Japanese omelet) reveals a hidden surprise of eel broth within its honeycomb-like texture, a delightful treat for the palate. The kaiseki set includes a soup made with sea bream broth, offering a refined taste underscored by the depth of kombu. The silent yet precise sushi-making ritual performed by the chef, paired with the century-old Kutani porcelain tableware, elevates the dining experience into a sensory theater. If there is a minor regret, it might be the somewhat conservative sake selection, but it does not detract from this ultimate Edo-style aesthetic performance. As you leave, the lingering umami on your palate already promises a return for the next seasonal catch.