For those sisters planning to visit Qinghai Lake in July-August, listen to my advice first…
Complete Self-Driving Guide Around Qinghai Lake:
1. My Self-Driving Experience Sharing
Not long ago, I completed an unforgettable self-driving trip around Qinghai Lake. I took it easy and went wherever I wanted, unknowingly covering more than 1,200 kilometers. The total cost for fuel and electricity was only about 360 yuan (excluding tolls), and toll fees were around 150 yuan, which is quite cost-effective. I rented a Li Xiang L8 in Xining. Charging was more frequent than refueling, but there are plenty of charging stations along the way, so there was no worry about battery power.
The Erlangjian Scenic Area is fenced off, and personally, I think it’s not very cost-effective; it’s enough to just look from outside. The scenery on the road is more attractive. At Heimahe Scenic Area, you can spend some money to buy a shuttle ticket to go inside and explore. After leaving Heimahe, head straight to the West Ring Road of the lake, driving northwest towards Shinahe Town. This section is the essence. Especially the stretch from Donggeer Viewing Platform to Garila Village, the scenery is so beautiful that you can’t take your eyes off it, more stunning than many paid attractions. If you see a place you like, feel free to stop the car and go through the iron fence to get close to nature. Continuing forward, you can reach Garila Temple. Drive along the small road to the lakeside, where you’ll see leisurely grazing cattle and sheep and circling eagles, full of pristine natural atmosphere. If you have enough time, drive another hour north to reach the cliff.
For accommodation, there are many guesthouses around the West Ring Road. Although the Qinghai Lake Guanhu Hotel at the entrance of Erlangjian offers oxygen supply, it is far from the main attractions, so there’s no need to stay there if you don’t visit Erlangjian. There are also guesthouses with oxygen equipment on the West Ring Road, which can make your sleeping environment more comfortable and help avoid waking up at night due to altitude discomfort.
During this trip, I experienced varying degrees of altitude sickness at Riyue Mountain (3,500 meters), Qinghai Lake (3,200 meters), and Qilian Gangshika (3,800 meters), including dizziness, rapid heartbeat, shortness of breath, slight fever and chills, and poor appetite. I didn’t dare to wash my hair or take a shower for several days, relying on oxygen tanks to relieve discomfort. If you continue north, the scenery along the Garxia and Chamo roads is also very good, but the road conditions are complicated. It is recommended to drive an SUV, as sedans are prone to scraping the chassis.
2. In-Depth Travel Guide
(1) Best Travel Time
Qinghai Lake is beautiful all year round, but July to September is the most charming. The climate is mild, with an average temperature around 15°C. Vast fields of rapeseed flowers bloom by the lake, with golden seas of flowers contrasting with the blue lake and white clouds, creating a stunning picture.
(2) How to Get There
1. By Plane: Fly to Xining Caojiabao Airport first. After exiting the airport, you can rent a car nearby to drive to Qinghai Lake, which is very convenient. Alternatively, take the airport shuttle bus to downtown Xining, then transfer to a tourist shuttle bus to Qinghai Lake.
2. By Train: Arrive at Xining Railway Station. After exiting, you can take a taxi to Qinghai Lake or take a bus from Xining Bus Station to Heimahe, Bird Island, and other places.
(3) Classic Loop Route
The whole trip is about 360 kilometers. It is recommended to take 2-3 days to travel slowly, allowing you to deeply experience the beautiful scenery without getting too tired.
1. Xining - Riyue Mountain - Daotang River - Erlangjian
Start from Xining, with the first stop at Riyue Mountain. This is the boundary between the Loess Plateau and the Qinghai-Tibet Plateau. Standing on the top, one side is rolling mountains, the other is vast grasslands, and you can learn about the history of Princess Wencheng’s journey to Tibet. Then head to Daotang River, a mysterious river flowing from east to west. Continue to Erlangjian, where although there are many paid attractions, it’s still nice to stroll around and enjoy the lake view.
2. Erlangjian - Heimahe - West Ring Road - Gangcha County
Leave Erlangjian and drive along National Highway 109 to Heimahe, where you can enjoy the stunning sunrise over Qinghai Lake. Then take the West Ring Road north, passing Donggeer Viewing Platform and Garila Village, with grasslands, lakes, and snow-capped mountains in full view. Arrive at Gangcha County in the evening to experience the tranquility of this Tibetan-style small town.
3. Gangcha County - Fairy Bay - Sand Island - Jinyin Tan Grassland - Xining
From Gangcha County, head to Fairy Bay, an excellent place to watch migratory birds. Every spring and autumn, thousands of migratory birds rest here. Then visit Sand Island to experience the unique landscape where desert meets lake (some areas are temporarily closed for ecological protection, please check locally before visiting). Finally, tour Jinyin Tan Grassland, the inspiration for Wang Luobin’s song "In That Distant Place," where cattle and sheep roam freely, full of poetic charm.
(4) Recommended Special Attractions
1. Bird Island: Located in the northwest corner of Qinghai Lake, from April to June each year, dozens of migratory birds such as bar-headed geese and brown-headed gulls nest and breed here, creating a spectacular scene with flocks covering the sky. However, to protect the ecology, some areas of Bird Island restrict visitor access.
2. Jinsha Bay: Here, sand dunes stretch continuously with fine sand. Standing on the dunes, you can overlook Qinghai Lake, where water and sky blend beautifully. You can also try sand sliding and camel riding.
3. Chaka Salt Lake: Although it is some distance from Qinghai Lake, it is worth a special trip. Known as the "Mirror of the Sky," the lake surface reflects the sky and clouds like a mirror. Wearing bright clothes for photos can easily produce stunning shots.
(5) Accommodation Options
1. Heimahe: A popular place to stay for watching the sunrise, with many guesthouses and inns, some offering rooms with lake views. You can open the curtains in the early morning and see the sun rising from the lake.
2. Gangcha County: The county town offers relatively good accommodation options, with many hotels and inns, convenient dining and shopping, suitable for travelers who want more comfort.
3. West Ring Road Guesthouses: Closer to nature with beautiful surrounding scenery. At night, you can see a sky full of stars. Some guesthouses have oxygen facilities, which are very friendly for visitors new to the plateau.
(6) Food Recommendations
1. Hand-Pulled Mutton: Qinghai’s hand-pulled mutton is tender and free of gamey taste. The cooked mutton is eaten directly by hand, paired with pepper salt or garlic sauce, making it delicious.
2. Qinghai Local Hot Pot: Charcoal burns in the middle of a copper pot, surrounded by lamb, beef, vermicelli, tofu, vegetables, and other ingredients. The broth is rich and becomes more flavorful the longer it cooks, perfect for group dining.
3. Niangpi (Cold Skin Noodles): Made from flour or pea starch, with a chewy texture. Served with chili oil, vinegar, and garlic paste, it is sour, spicy, and refreshing, a very popular snack.
4. Yak Yogurt: Thick yogurt sprinkled with sugar or honey, sweet and rich in flavor, nutritious. After eating greasy food, a bowl of this is especially refreshing.
5. Butter Tea: Made by boiling brick tea and mixing it with butter, it keeps you warm and helps relieve altitude sickness. You can taste authentic butter tea in Tibetan-style tea houses.
(7) Practical Tips
1. Sun Protection: Ultraviolet rays are strong in plateau areas. Be sure to apply high-SPF sunscreen, wear a sun hat, sunglasses, and sun-protective clothing to avoid sunburn.
2. Keep Warm: The temperature difference between day and night is large. Even in summer, bring thick jackets and long pants. Keep warm when going out at night to prevent colds.
3. Respect Local Customs: The areas around Qinghai Lake are mainly Tibetan communities. Respect local religious beliefs and customs, such as not entering prayer flag areas casually and not disturbing monks during religious activities.
4. Environmental Protection: Qinghai Lake’s ecology is fragile. Do not litter while traveling. Bring your own trash bags and take your garbage with you to help protect this pure land.
Driving around Qinghai Lake is full of surprises. Whether it’s the magnificent lake views or the simple local customs, it’s worth savoring carefully. Pack your bags and set off to encounter this sapphire on the plateau!