Night mooring at Tuojiang River, a lamp has been waiting for a thousand years
[RedHeart] When the black-sailed boat glided across the last ripple of water, the entire Tuojiang River suddenly darkened. The lights of the stilt houses gradually emerged from the water, as if someone had knocked over a pottery jar full of stars. The boatman tied the cable to the stone pier of Hongqiao, and the knot still had dents left by merchants in the Ming and Qing dynasties.
[RedHeart] A warm yellow shone through the bamboo curtains of the riverside tavern, and sporadic sounds of oars leaked through the carved wooden window frames. I stared at the solitary lamp on the shore in a trance - it hung under the mottled wooden eaves, illuminating the plaque that read "Tea-Horse Heritage" and the newly painted QR code next to the plaque. The copper bells on the eaves rang, seemingly overlapping with the sounds of a caravan passing by a hundred years ago.
[RedHeart]Midnight fog spreads over the bluestone slabs, and the night watchman walks by to the rhythm of the bangzi music in "Border Town". The sound of guitar from the bar street in the distance floated over like water weeds, and was crushed into sparkling waves by the Tuojiang River. At this moment, all the noise has become a blur on the ink painting. Only the lamp is still awake, writing the rhythm of a thousand years on the sparkling river surface.
Fenghuang Ancient Town Travel Guide
1. Transportation Guide
1. How to get to Fenghuang Ancient Town?
airplane:
Tongren Phoenix Airport (about 40 kilometers from the ancient city): You can take the airport bus or taxi (about 120 yuan) directly there.
Zhangjiajie Hehua Airport or Huaihua Zhijiang Airport: Transfer to bus or high-speed rail to Fenghuang.
High-speed rail:
Huaihua South Station: After exiting the station, take a bus (about 1.5 hours, fare 40 yuan) or share a car (about 60 yuan/person).
Jishou East Station: Take a bus (1 hour, 25 yuan) directly to Fenghuang.
Self-driving:
It takes about 5 hours from Changsha and about 3 hours from Zhangjiajie. There are many mountainous roads along the way, so drive carefully.
2. Transportation within the ancient city
Walking and rafting on the Tuojiang River are the main activities in the ancient city. You can take a taxi (starting price is 5 yuan) or rent an electric car (about 20 yuan/hour) outside the city.
2. Accommodation Recommendations
1. Room with river view on both sides of Tuojiang River
Features: When you open the window, you can see the beautiful view of the stilt house and Tuojiang River, and the lights are bright at night.
Recommended B&Bs: Shadow Cafe River View B&B, Su Lu Lotus Jiuye Half Mountain B&B.
Price: 200-400 yuan/night in off-season, 500-800 yuan/night in peak season (Labor Day and National Day).
2. Specialty Inns in the Ancient City
Recommended areas: Dongzheng Street and Huilongge Ancient Street to experience the architectural style of the Ming and Qing Dynasties.
Recommended inns: Phoenix Seal Inn and Qinghua Courtyard.
3. High-end hotels
Fenghuang Ancient Town Garden Hotel: Complete facilities, suitable for family travel.
3. Must-visit attractions
1. Scenic spots in the ancient city
Tuojiang River Rafting (80 yuan/person for day trip, 120 yuan/person for night trip): Take a boat to enjoy the stilt houses on both sides of the river. It is recommended to go in the early morning or evening to avoid the crowds.
Hongqiao Fengyu Tower: A landmark of the ancient city, the teahouse on the second floor offers a panoramic view.
Shen Congwen’s Former Residence (ticket price: 40 yuan): Learn about the growth story of the literary master.
East Gate Tower: One of the best locations to take panoramic photos of the ancient city.
Wanming Tower: The lights are reflected on the Tuojiang River at night, which is suitable for taking night photos.
2. Surrounding attractions
Miao Valley + Laojia Village (one-day tour about 150 yuan): explore the Miao culture, experience the door-blocking wine and bamboo pole dance.
Southern Great Wall (ticket price: 45 yuan): a military defense relic from the Ming Dynasty, suitable for hiking.
Qiliang Cave (ticket price: 60 yuan): a karst cave wonder and a summer resort.
Dehang Miao Village (1.5 hours’ drive from the ancient city): a combination of canyon waterfalls and Miao customs.
4. Food Map
1. Authentic Xiangxi flavor
Blood-cooked Duck: Duck meat and glutinous rice blood-cooked duck. Recommended: Junzi Restaurant.
Sour Soup Fish: Spicy and sour, it is appetizing. You can try the "Big Pot and Big Stove Firewood Restaurant".
Fried bracken with bacon: Tujia flavor, available in restaurants in the ancient city.
Shrimp cakes: freshly fried by the Tuojiang River, 5 yuan per piece, crispy and delicious.
2. Snacks and souvenirs
Ginger candy: The most authentic "Zhang's Ginger Candy" is found near Hongqiao.
Wooden Hammer Crisp: Made on site, sweet and not greasy.
Rice tofu: can be eaten cold or cooked in soup, "Grandma's Rice Tofu" is recommended.
3. Night Market Recommendations
Hongqiao Night Market: barbecue, stinky tofu, and Xiangxi pickles.
South Street: A gathering place for literary cafes and bars. The "Border Town Story" bar is recommended.
5. Itinerary suggestions
Day Trips
Morning: Shen Congwen's Former Residence→East Gate Tower→Tuojiang River Rafting
Afternoon: Hongqiao Fengyu Tower → Yang Family Ancestral Hall → Xiong Xiling's Former Residence
Evening: Night cruise on Tuojiang River + Hongqiao Night Market
Two-day tour
Day 1: Ancient City Core Scenic Spots + Night View
Day 2: Miao Valley/Southern Great Wall Day Tour
Three-day tour
Day 3: Dehang Miao Village + Aizhai Bridge (the world’s highest canyon suspension bridge)
6. Notes
Tips to avoid pitfalls:
The "low-cost Miao village tours" solicited on the street may have hidden costs, so it is recommended to book through formal platforms.
Confirm the price (usually 20-30 yuan/hour) before renting Miao costumes for taking photos to avoid being charged extra.
Dressing advice: The cobblestone roads in the ancient city are uneven, so wear comfortable sports shoes.
Best season: Spring and autumn (March to May, September to November) have pleasant weather, while summer is rainy so prepare rain gear.
Tickets: The ancient city is free, but some attractions require tickets. A combined ticket costs 128 yuan (including 9 attractions).
7. Photography Tips
Morning fog over Tuojiang River: From 6:00 to 7:00 in the morning, the river is covered with mist, like a fairyland.
Night view camera positions: Nanhua Bridge, both sides of Hongqiao Bridge, and near Tiaoyan.
Humanistic photography: capture the locals carrying bamboo baskets and the old ladies washing clothes by the river.