Hotel Shiroyama

Hotel Shiroyama might be easily overlooked by foreign travelers. And there may be a reason for that. It doesn't really cater to non-Japanese speakers. That said, if you can speak some Japanese and you have a good understanding of Japanese etiquette and rules, you can have an excellent experience at this hotel. (I am a Westerner, I can speak some Japanese, and I have a Japanese husband. All of this was greatly to my benefit, so, keep that in mind as you read this review.) Hotel Shiroyama is, depending on what part of the hotel you are in, quite old. There are parts of it that look like it's from the Showa era, with maroon walls and old-style hotel carpeting. But then... in the men's sento (public bath), it was incredibly beautiful and clean and modern. Small, yes, but still, truly lovely. Also, the rooms: there must have been a "refresh" on all the bathrooms: there were double sinks, a stall shower with an overheard attachment so you can really get a good blasting if you want one, and of course a washlet toilet with the lid that opens when you approach it. The rooms were also quite large, with a separate little sitting area near the window (although there is no view to speak of, at least from the 2nd floor). The pièce de résistance is the Japanese dinner that is served in your room. It is quite astonishing in the number of dishes that are offered: lots of small appetizers, sashimi, sumashijiru (a clear soup that is divine), beef stew covered with a baked rice cracker, several other dishes that are heated at the table, rice, of course, and more. We stopped counting and stopped eating -- it was too much. And then of course there was dessert. Now, I am not saying this was a 5-star meal; some of it was great, the rest was good. But the amount that was served was sort of mind-boggling. Of course you can also order beer or sake or soft drinks to go with the meal. Trust me; for two people, it was just way too much food, unless you have super hearty appetites and absolutely love Japanese cuisine. That said, if you are unable to sit cross-legged in a chair made for that purpose, you will be somewhat uncomfortable for the entire meal. It is all served on a low table, and while you can put your feet under the table, you will not be sitting in a position that is natural for most Westerners. There is a smallish table in the sitting room (near the window), but do not expect them to put the food there, because there are too many dishes and they won't fit. I would say the Hotel Shiroyama went above and beyond to provide a really lovely "Japanese experience" with their dinner. Also, the breakfast served in the morning in a communal dining room was fairly hearty, but it is entirely Japanese. If you are used to eating this way, or you are craving this kind of experience you will enjoy it -- but remember, these meals are "set." There is no substitution for anything. They do not cater to vegetarians, so if you are one, this is not the place for you. The attend