The House of Royals

The House of Royals offers a unique opportunity to step back in time and get a glimpse of the life of the Bu-Saidi family who ruled Zanzibar, and much of East Africa, from the early 19th century, either on their own or under a British Protectorate, until independence and the 1964 revolution. The house itself is only a part of the much larger complex of palaces and grand buildings which stood there but still has the feel of grandeur. It has been lovingly restored by the host Szilvia and the gardens are spectacularly beautiful. It is worth staying there just to sit on the covered upstairs balcony and walk through the extensive ruins which surround it, some of which date back centuries. It overlooks a beach which is littered with fishing boats at low water with the crews mending nets and readying the fleet to go out when the tide allows. The busy town of Bububu is a few hundred metres away. The beach extends Northwards, where there is a small hotel, which was closed when I was there, and a beachside bar. The house itself is not easy to find but Szilvia sends very detailed instructions and has a recommended taxi driver. It is a Guest House but she can arrange for guests to eat there and it is probably a good plan as, although there is a very good local restaurant (Bibi’s Kitchen) within easy walking distance, it is not an easy journey to make in the dark. The House of Royals is extremely quiet and is a total contrast to Stonetown, but may be too quiet for some guests. I found it magical and fascinating but was staying on my own and felt a bit isolated. The breakfast was excellent, especially the local fruit juice which had a hint of cloves which gave it a very exotic and very Zanzibari tang.