Guest User
March 10, 2024
I guess it’s all about perspective. On paper, who wouldn't find the prospect of a weekend at a Regency fishing lodge with Grade I listed gardens in deepest, rain-soaked Devon irresistible? What kind of cold-hearted curmudgeon wouldn’t be seduced by the roaring log fires and the candlelit hallway and sitting rooms? There is definitely a palpable sense of magic about the Endsleigh: as soon as you arrive, you are instantly drawn into a bygone era of upper crust country house weekends from the pages of E. M. Forster or Evelyn Waugh. Having yearned to visit this much-lauded hotel for so long, I was slightly dismayed not to be met by anyone upon arrival and to be told, once I had found Reception, that “We have no porter today”. I don’t mind carrying my own bags but it was a slightly inauspicious start. Much is made of the hand-printed wallpapers decorating the bedrooms, reflecting Olga Polizzi’s style and exquisite taste but she must have missed Room 4. Yes, it’s spacious with a very comfortable bed and lovely views but it’s beyond drab: plain walls with the odd picture hanging at a bizarrely low height. Surely, the portrait of the Duke of Bedford should take pride of place in this room and not be hiding at the side of a chest of drawers as an afterthought? Even more baffling, there are rather cheap-looking lampshades which certainly didn’t come from Cotswold Interiors or Graham & Green! The bathroom - promoted as the Duke’s former chapel - may be quirky but the steps down to it are precariously steep and both the bath and tiles need serious attention. The perfect space to pray for a makeover! The staff are very friendly and laid-back and are never less than attentive and professional. There isn’t a huge choice at dinner and I can’t quite work out why the vegetarian menu seems to be such a closely-guarded secret but £67 for a mushroom risotto made us go elsewhere on the following two nights. Breakfast is a perfectly-orchestrated affair - full marks to the chef for conjuring-up exemplary poached eggs and to Jess for serving them so brilliantly - but don’t expect any kind of buffet or a massive choice. No doubt this is an economically-motivated business decision in the same way that the lack of tea and coffee-making facilities in the rooms is a tactic to make you order room service. Sadly, it leaves one feeling slightly short-changed. The pièce de resistance is, of course, the spectacular location and the Repton-designed gardens. It may be a bit over-priced and a little tired, but the Endsleigh still manages to captivate its guests with its quintessential English charm.