AmbroSea Amalfi Coast

Reflecting back on my time this past summer in the delightfully non-touristy town of Vietri sul Mare just south of Salerno, I cannot say enough about my accommodations at the family owned and operated Ambrosea Amalfi Coast. Perched atop the cliffside town, this bed and breakfast is a perfect spot from which to explore the town and region. Staffed by the ever-gracious and accommodating Carmen, with help from her mom, the rooms are ample and the atmosphere welcoming and serene. During my weeklong writing retreat, I met a number of other guests from Europe and the U.S., all of whom ebulliently shared stories of favorite restaurants and "must see" attractions along the Amalfi Coast. Carmen was always on hand during breakfast hours to facilitate local travel, including how to access the high-speed ferry boats that function like an aquatic metro system transporting locals and tourists alike to towns dotting the coast. The views from the water are breathtaking and during summer months offer exposure to much desired breezes. Another benefit of Ambrosea is its proximity to the sea about a half mile down a narrow cobblestone road. For those who like to swim for exercise, the best time to go is early in the morning (e.g. 7 am) when the waters are still as glass. Carmen can tell you how to get to the public beach where you can safely stash your clothes and swim just outside the roped-off beaches for as far as you want to go. There's no charge for beach access at this spot early in the morning, leaving the whole day open for whatever adventure your heart desires. Don't miss getting back for breakfast, however, as it is always delectable (Carmen formerly worked as a private chef). The one caution I would offer to those planning to stay here is to make sure you're okay with lugging your suitcase up a few flights of stairs as there's no elevator. Good exercise if you're able-bodied and all the more reason to pack light. Also, if you're coming from the train station just blocks away, keep in mind that the entrance and signage is NOT on the main street; rather it is in a courtyard just off the main street. Locals might not recognize Ambrosea by name or street address, but if you mention Carmen, everyone knows her.

Ambrosea is a beautiful newly renovated Bed & Breakfast located in the middle of the eastern most town on the Amalfi Coast - Vietri sul Mare. The rooms are spacious, spotless and the beds are comfortable . The owner, Carmen Saviano, is a chef and provides a well rounded breakfast that meets everyone's needs: warm pancakes/waffles/French toast, fresh fruit, cereal, yogurt, fresh juice and of course endless cups of espresso or American coffee or tea. Carmen will serve a dinner based upon the local cuisine for guests upon request. (See photos below.) There are spectacular views from the rooms and a patio off the dining area; ideal for relaxing after a day of sightseeing with a glass of wine. Vietri sul Mare, the "Ceramic Capital" of the world is a small vibrant town with much history and with many excellent wineries nearby (Le Vigne di Raito is the closest). Vietri sul Mare is a short drive (less than an hour) from Pompeii, Greek ruins in Cilento, Irpinia wine country and Salerno and Naples. We plan on spending another 5 nights at Ambrosea next year - a helpful hint - as with many old structures in Italy there is no lift/elevator and the rooms are on the third story of an historic building.

This past September I had the good fortune to stumble on the Ambrosea Amalfi Coast. I have not stayed often at a Bead and Breakfast, but this stay on my trip to the Amalfi Coast and Salerno was exceptional in many ways. The location was perfect. Vietri sul Mare, located at the start of the Amalfi Coast and a short drive to Salerno was exactly what I needed to accomplish my two objectives of visiting the Amalfi Coast and also visiting the small village south of Salerno where my family is from. Vietri sul Mare is a very quaint neighborhood that offers anything that I could have wanted, all within walking distance. It is at the start of the Amalfi Coast Highway offering easy access to Positano and Sorrento without having to be in the center of everything. Ambrosea Amalfi Coast was comfortable, beautifully appointed and located directly across from the Mediterranean Sea. Upon entering my room I was immediately greeted by a sweeping view of the sea, which was not advertised, but definitely much appreciated. The room had everything that I could have ever needed, and the kitchen/dining area was decorated beautifully and offered an extensive assortment of pre-prepared foods as well as breakfast items prepared upon request. Of all the wonderful things I can say about Ambrosea, the thing that was the absolute most notable was the friendliness and helpfulness of the hostess, Carmen. Carmen made sure that everything that I could possibly needed was taken care of. When I casually mentioned that one of my objectives was to visit the small village of Capaccio, she informed me that she had a friend that lived there. On my second morning Carmen informed me that she had talked with her friend and had done some research. She was able to find for me someone in Capaccio with my last name and she provided me with the address of his business. Definitely the highlight of my trip was when I reached Capaccio and was able to meet what was almost certainly a distant cousin. I would highly recommend Ambrosea Amalfi Coast, Vietri sul Mare and Carmen if you find yourself in that area of Italy.