andrew-s-wood
March 19, 2024
We had the best time at the Eden. It’s a great old-world hotel that’s been totally spiffed up, with an amazing staff (more on them later). This place is aptly named… it overlooks the Villa Borghese Gardens and the church at the top of the Spanish Steps… and, from its rooftop glassed-in restaurants and bar, almost all of Rome. Immaculately renovated a few years ago… the place still looks fresh and elegant. Compared to the other Big 3… the very touristy and dated (albeit in a classic way) Hassler and the Hotel de Russie (great patio but a little rough around the edges and in a lesser location)… the Eden stands alone at the top of the hill. Just a bit removed from the action of the Steps and Via dei Condotti but still walking distance to everything important, it had the perfect location for our Roman adventure. BTW, the city looks way better in January than it it did the last time we visited in the month of July… IF you get good weather, which we did. No crowds… no tourists… just Italians. It was great. The hotel is not big but it is luxe. The small lobby is elegant and there’s a beautiful ground floor bar (though I never saw anyone in there). The fancy restaurant and a second bar/more casual restaurant are on the top floor. Our room was good-sized, not huge but elegantly appointed, with a formal entry and a narrow set of French doors opening to a small balcony. If a balcony room is in your budget, get it...even if you just stand out there for a moment or two, which is all we did given the chilly temperatures. From the room and balcony, you have a wide panorama of the charming rooftops of Rome, the back of the Hassler, the church at the top of the Spanish Steps and the Villa Borghese Gardens. Stunning. The large marble bathroom had the same large windows and views. If you stay here, definitely take a bath in the soaking tub… a sublime experience with that vista. I’d suggest a room facing Via de Porta Pinciana, not Via Ludovisi, as the latter side is above the hotel entrance and opposite a mostly underground parking garage (albeit with a garden on top). Neither is that busy of a street but I think the views on the Porta side are better. We were on the floor directly below the bar and more casual restaurant, which gave us the best views in the hotel and was also very convenient… you could take the “private” stairs up to breakfast and dinner. The downside was you could hear a little bass from the bar late at night through the ceiling. Not terrible but it was there. Still, I wouldn’t trade those views for a lower floor. Overall, the hotel was very quiet. It may have helped that it was not too crowded most of the time we stayed there. The beds were great and we slept very well. I saved the best for last… the people who work here. They’re everything you’d want from a luxe Italian hotel… and then some. Uniformly nice, warm, friendly and helpful (and often fun and charming) at every encounter. I’ve not always experienced this in a country where so m