Yamado

Yamado is acclaimed for its natural surroundings, direct-source onsen (gensen kakenagashi), and its thoughtful approach to highlighting Iwate’s local specialties. Most of the staff hail from Iwate and take visible pride in sharing the region's charms with heartfelt hospitality. If our visit is any indication, the accolades Yamado receives are well earned — especially when it comes to service. It may not be flashy, but for travelers seeking a quiet retreat with authentic hot springs far off the tourist trail, Yamado excels. Unlike ryokans where a manicured garden might be central, Yamado embraces its remote location beside a forested hill and a gently flowing stream. The main building houses reception, a cozy lounge, and the restaurant Fukuzenbo. The property also includes a private rental bath (bookable in advance; we reserved a 4PM slot by phone) and 12 guest rooms flanking either side, each facing the hillside and river, complete with their own onsen. There isn't much to explore onsite, but what's there is deeply peaceful. We stayed in the Luxury Suite "Buna," a 52m² room with a separate living area, bedroom, and indoor onsen convertible to semi-open-air via large sliding windows. Though it lacked a desk, we appreciated the subdued colors and calming ambiance. Buna is Yamado's second-best room; Katsura shares the same layout but sits closer to the river with an outdoor terrace onsen — unfortunately already booked on our dates. Still, the view from Buna was stunning, and we spent hours simply gazing out at the landscape. That view reached new heights from Yu-ba Issun, Yamado's private rental bath suspended directly over the stream, hugged tightly by foliage. The onsen temperature was perfectly tuned for late June thanks to seasonal adjustments, allowing us to enjoy the full 30 minutes. I even spotted a Yamame (Japanese Cherry Trout) gliding through the water below. We returned at night and soaked under starlight in the softly illuminated setting. Here's a short clip I filmed of Yu-ba Issun: Dinner was a Japanese-European fusion centered on Iwate's finest ingredients, with Ginsetsu chicken from Nishiwaga (developed and raised by Yamado) and Hakkinton pork from Hanamaki leading the menu. Ginsetsu — born from Nambu Kashiwa — is raised in a stress-free environment fed by mineral-rich meltwater and processed using a proprietary technique. It's quietly gaining national recognition. The chicken appeared as Shabu-Shabu hot pot and Sichuan-style sweet and sour. Hakkinton pork featured in Fusilli with ground meat and as a low-temperature grilled chop. Local farmed and foraged plants added creative flair to many dishes. Iburi Gakko (smoked pickled daikon) was served tartare-style with Kogomi (Ostrich fern) and also appeared as a rice condiment. Mizu, a mustard spinach I hadn't encountered before, came in a sesame sauce mixed with shredded Ginsetsu chicken. A cocktail-glass starter layered Junsai (water shield), small shrimp, okra, and Kikuna (crown da